Tag Archives: Italy

Wine Notes: Piedmont’s Monferrato Reds

 

What I Learned

The Monferrato region in northern Italy has a long tradition of wine-making, pre-dating even the Romans. As the famous Roman naturalist, Pliny the Elder noted, the Romans greatly appreciated the wine coming from the Muscat grape cultivated in the Monferrato as a varietal more resistant to cold weather.

Today, the Monferrato is one of Piedmont’s wine production districts. The DOC system recognizes various unique varietals and some interesting wine production techniques. The wines from here are not only high quality overall, but also indigenous to this area in some cases. I think it one of Italy’s more unknown and underrated wine districts.

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Valle dei Frati: Trail in a Nutshell

Trail Name:  Valle dei Frati; AKA: CAI 746

Trail Type: A short distance circuit trail; well-maintained and almost exclusively hard-packed surfaces, from tarmac to grassland, although there were a couple of small muddy grassland spots; the trail is fairly well marked.

Length:

Total – 8 kilometers/4.97 miles

Convenient to: Casale Monferrato, or Asti, Piedmont, Italy

Marking:

Red and white horizontal (or vertical) bars, and/or words “CAI 746” (Also see featured photo above.)

Generic Trail Marking

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Hiking Valtellina’s Vineyards II

 

Because I sometimes wonder whether I appreciate wine enough, innumerable tastings notwithstanding, I will occasionally take the time to hike multiple stages of some of the longer European wine trails. That is the case with the Via dei Terrazzamenti (Terrace Way) in Italy’s Valtellina wine region. Set just south of Switzerland in the Lombardy province, this Alpine region is as awesome as it is daunting. I appreciate a physical challenge, and while the trail is not as difficult as it could be, given the rugged nature of the terroir, there are literally several breath-taking ascents. These sometimes seem to climb endlessly, but rejoice in it: the higher the climb the more expansive the views. Then there are the descents that will leave your legs feeling it.

Straight Up Shooting, from the Trail

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Wine Notes: Italy’s Valtellina II

 

What I Learned

While the Valtellina wine region is not the northernmost wine producing area in Italy, its grapes grow at altitudes of over 760 meters (2500 feet). The terrain here is dominated by mountains: rocky, incredibly steep, subject to sudden changes in weather from the north.

The classification system in Valtellina, like the appellation controlee system in France, is based on geography. In Valtellina, there are five recognized areas of cultivation of the Chiavennasca grape (known as Nebbiolo in the Piedmont). These five areas are distinct micro zones of terroirs and traditions, each with its own history, and each with its own Chiavennasca wine.  Visiting each area, and sampling their wines, provides an excellent opportunity to explore the different expressions of Chiavennasca as vinified in Valtellina.

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Trail in a Nutshell: Via dei Terrazzamenti II

 

Trail Name:  Via dei Terrazzamenti (Terrace Way)

Trail Type: Long distance; well-maintained, with a hard-packed, but occasionally uneven, surface; usually good marking on the trail

Length:

Total: 70 kilometers/43 miles (Morbegno – Tirano)

Mine: 14 kilometers/8.5 miles

Convenient to: Sondrio, or Tirano, Lombardy, Italy

Marking:

The words Via dei Terrazzamenti, accompanied by a logo resembling a four-leaf clover on a yellow arrow; sometimes the same logo is on a white bar over red bar rectangular sign (See the featured photo above, and the photo below.)

Via dei Terrazzamenti Trail Marker

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Valtellina Vineyards I

 

Strung together like a string of pearls, the vineyards of Valtellina occupy terraces along south-facing mountainsides in this spectacular Italian wine region. The vineyards climb vertiginously away from towns along the Adda River, up to villages clinging to the side of the mountain.

From the Adda to Montagna in Valtellina

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Wine Notes: Italy’s Valtellina I

 

What I Learned

Italy is famous for its for wines, especially powerful, refined reds such as Tuscany’s Brunello, Valpolicella’s Amarones, and Piedmont’s Barolo and Barbaresco wines. The Valtellina region of Lombardy, Italy, also produces well-regarded, powerfully flavorful, red wines, and made from the same varietal that produces Barolo and Barbaresco. It also produces wine in a process similar to Valpolicella’s Amarones. Lovers of such powerful reds will find Valtellina’s DOCG red wines delicious and a good value for the money.

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Trail in a Nutshell: Via dei Terrazzamenti

 

Trail Name:  Via dei Terrazzamenti

Trail Type: Long distance; well-maintained, with a hard-packed, but occasionally uneven surface throughout, usually there is good marking on the trail, but it tends to disappear in villages and towns.

Length:

Total: 70 kilometers/43 miles (Morbegno – Tirano)

Mine: 14 kilometers/8.5 miles (Chiuro – Ponchiera)

Convenient to: Sondrio, or Tirano, Lombardy, Italy

Marking:

Words “Via dei Terrazzamenti” on a white background with a four-leafed clover design inside; sometimes associated with a metal yellow arrow.

White over red horizontal bars indicate a hiking trail generically

Note: The photo below shows all of the above, with the addition of an extra sign on the yellow arrow, (with a number thirty), indicating a different trail as well.

Signage: Via dei Terrazzamenti

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