Wine Notes: Piedmont’s Monferrato Reds

 

What I Learned

The Monferrato region in northern Italy has a long tradition of wine-making, pre-dating even the Romans. As the famous Roman naturalist, Pliny the Elder noted, the Romans greatly appreciated the wine coming from the Muscat grape cultivated in the Monferrato as a varietal more resistant to cold weather.

Today, the Monferrato is one of Piedmont’s wine production districts. The DOC system recognizes various unique varietals and some interesting wine production techniques. The wines from here are not only high quality overall, but also indigenous to this area in some cases. I think it one of Italy’s more unknown and underrated wine districts.

Several international red varietals, such as Merlot and Pinot Nero (Noir), grow here; as well as Piedmont regional favorites such as Nebbiolo and Barbera. Then there are the lesser-known, but equally delicious Monferrato red varietals: Bonarda Piemontese, Grignolino, Freisa, and Malvasia Nero. These grapes are often produced as varietal wines (except for Bonarda Piemontese) and provide wine lovers a different tasting experience, unique to the land they come from, the Monferrato. The several DOC wines from these grapes include:

The Monferrato Freisa DOC: A lively, dry red wine with raspberry and floral notes;

The Grignolino del Monferrato Casalese DOC: A uniquely Monferrato dry red wine with interesting pepper notes;

The Barbera del Monferrato DOC: A rich, intensely ruby-colored and red fruits flavored, dry red wine;

The Malvasia di Casorzo DOC: Another unique red wine with floral notes, and usually low alcohol, ideal for dessert courses;

The Bonarda Piemontese, a rare varietal (not to be confused with other Bonarda varietals), that if used, is usually used in blends. A varietal wine of Bonarda Piemontese will taste more floral than other dry reds from this region, and yet has high tannins and low acidity.

 

What I Tasted

2018 Grignolino del Monferrato Casalese, Arbian, DOC, Societa Agricola Paolo Angelini (Ozzano Monferrato): A dry red wine with medium plus ruby, almost red brick, color; tobacco, tar and wood nose, with floral, vanilla, and spice flavors.

2017 Barbera del Monferrato, Bricco Morlantino, DOC, Azienda Agricola Casalone (Lu): A dry red wine with dark garnet red color; toast and dark dried cherry nose, with cherry, oak, and spice flavors, with a hint of pine; medium plus tannins, with a smooth, buttery finish;

2015 Malvasia di Casorzo, DOC, Cantina di Casorzo (Casorzo): A sweet red wine with dark red raspberry color; intense rose, sweet cinnamon and raspberry nose and flavors; very mild tannins, very smooth. Slightly effervescent on the palate.

2014 Freisa, Monferrato Freisa DOC, Marco Botto (Sala Monferrato): A dry red wine with dark purple-red color; raspberry nose and raspberry and floral flavor notes; medium light tannins; surprisingly dry given the overall sweet nose.

2014 Grignolino del Monferrato Casalese, DOC, Gaudio (Vignale Monferrato): A dry red wine with light ruby red color; a slight redberry and spice nose, cherry and vanilla flavors; medium tannins.

2014 Piemonte Bonarda, Birba, DOC, Marco Botto: A dry red wine with medium plus ruby red color; sour cherry, slightly floral and tobacco nose, with red cherry flavors; slightly effervescent, with high tannins, but low acidity.