Tag Archives: biking French vineyard trails

Paysage a Bicyclette: Trail in a Nutshell

 

Trail Name: Paysage a Bicyclette

Trail Type: Mid-distance circuit biking trail; much of it paved and car-free, well maintained, fairly good signage throughout (but at least bring a map, if nothing else).

Length:

Total: 31 kilometers/ 19.5 miles

Convenient to: Colmar, Alsace, France

Marking:

White pointy-ends rectangular sign with dark letters: Paysage a Bicyclette in script writing

Paysage a Bicyclette Trail Signage

Trail Description: A slightly challenging trail through vines and villages in a relatively quiet section of the Alsatian wine region, offering plenty of opportunities to reconnect with nature, admire the wide expanses, and taste wine while exploring small towns and villages along the route!

Trailhead:

Official: Rouffach: Mairie (Town Hall), on Place de la Republique

Alternative: Eguisheim: Grande Rue

Parking:

Eguisheim: Grande Rue, large paved lot, reasonable fees

Rouffach: Place des Sports, large paved lot, with overflow parking nearby, free

Public Transportation Options:

Rail: SNCF regional trains (TER), regularly connect Rouffach (station less than one kilometer from the trail) with Colmar and Strasbourg to the north, and Mulhouse to the south

Suggested Stages:

Not applicable

Trail Itinerary-Reference Points:

Rouffach: R du Marechal Joffre/D18Bis-R Claude Ignace Callinet, R. Louis Pasteur-R. des Vosges-Route de Westhalten; Cross Muehlweg, onto track named Saegmattenweg; Gundolsheim: D15/Route de Rouffach-R. du Nord-Schlittweg-Gundolsheimerweg; onto Holderhuerstleweg, over train tracks, hard right but continue on trail, Rouffach: cross D8, Heiligkreuzweg-Staaweg; cross tracks, then parallel them on Gaertleweg; Metzgermatten and Kiffmatten fields; woods, cross D83 highway; Hattstatt: D121/Route du Vin; Alte Staatstrasse, Herrenstr trail, Rte de Herrlisheim/D1bis; Eguisheim: D14/Grande Rue, R. du Muscat-R du Vin, unnamed trail to left after R. du Buhl; Obermorschwihr: Dagsbourg Hohlweg, R du Dagsbourg-R des Pres; fields and vineyards; Gueberschwihr: R du Nord, R Basse-Route de Pfaffenheim; Gaensbrunnweg trail, then first right; Pfaffenheim: R du Muscat, Grande Rue-Drotfeldweg-Kopfacherweg; Alte Strasse through vineyards-R. Louis Pasteur

Representative Trail Photos:

Typical paved trail section
Typical Unpaved Trail Section

Restrooms:

Rouffach: R. du 4eme Spahis Marocains (by the bus stop)

Eguisheim: by the paid parking lot (see parking above), and in the old center in Cr Unterlinden

Attractions on or near Trail:

Eguisheim:

The Little Train will take passengers through vineyards as well as the town

The Wolfberger Cave has a discovery room with some explanations and photos, in addition to a large boutique for lots of its wine and wine-related products.

Tasting along the Trail:

Wineries, mostly family-owned, in every village – you will be spoiled for choice. Do not hesitate to visit one (or several) between roughly 9-1200, and 14-1800 on most days (some including Sunday mornings during tourism season)!

Alternative Options:

Hiking:

Eguisheim: Vignoble et Chateaux, a short but steep in places trail that passes through a great variety of scenery and terrain, with great views. See the Nutshell here.

Soultzmatt or Westhalten: https://www.visorando.com/randonnee-promenade-dans-le-vignoble-de-la-vallee-/ thru vineyards, listed as medium difficulty (hills, not much shade)

Additional Information:

Regional: https://www.visit.alsace/en/253001422-tourist-office-pays-deguisheim-et-de-rouffach-office-from-rouffach/

Trail (segment) specific: https://www.cirkwi.com/fr/circuit/536654-le-paysage-a-bicyclette

Comments:

A fantastic area for wines, history, and hiking and biking in nature.

Top Three Cycling Itineraries

 

Like last month, the pandemic has left me without many cycling options for 2021. Therefore, I would like to take the time this month to note some of my favorite cycling itineraries passing through vineyard areas in Europe, in the hopes that someday soon, we can all get out there again to enjoy outdoor and wine tasting adventures with friends!

 

  1. The Place: Germany (Baden) and France (Alsace)

No boundaries!  See great wine producing districts on both sides of the Rhine.

The Activity: Cycling a 235-kilometer-long circuit, the Romanik und Wein/Style Roman et Vin

Why this one: This cycling itinerary offers great diversity: From Black Forest Mountains to the Vosges Mountains, through bucolic fields, woods, and vineyards of course, through hamlets, picturesque villages and the city of Strasbourg, passing from easy, to moderate, to more challenging cycling segments. Cyclists will discover quiet, charming, unspoiled locations in which to take a break, and enjoy the atmosphere. Then comes Strasbourg, with its almost overwhelming sights and opportunities for food, wine, cultural events and people-watching from numerous cafes. Finally, while there is some street riding (although very little of it through Strasbourg as this itinerary passes through the city’s extensive pedestrian zones), much of this itinerary is vehicle-free, using agricultural access lanes, bike paths and even canal tow paths, repurposed and maintained (!) for bicycles.

Caveats: I did not cycle the segment between Wasselonne and Hagenau because this area has no vineyards and it had the most street-riding along the whole itinerary. Therefore, I cannot address any issues there. Most cyclists would require at least three days to complete this circuit, cycling at least 78 kilometers/48 miles a day.

Winning Wine Discovery: Two very different wine cultures and both are delicious!

From East to West:

The Black Forest Mountains, Germany

 

On the Trail: Fields by Hofweier, Germany

 

Heading to Strasbourg on the Rhone to Rhine Canal

 

Strasbourg, France

 

The Vosges, France

 

  1. The Place: Switzerland, the Valais Canton

The Activity: Cycling the 82-kilometer-long Chemin du Vignoble trail from Martigny to Leuk

Why this One: The Alpine scenery is spectacular, no doubt about it. The mountainsides rise dramatically all around, the blue-green Rhone River pours through the valley between them, and cyclists pedal along, enjoying the beauty of it all.

Caveats: This route is listed as difficult, and two days are suggested to complete it. (Sion is the suggested intermediary point.) However, if you reverse the itinerary (from Leuk to Martigny), it is much easier, as it follows the river valley downhill, vice uphill. Mind, there will still be some inclines, but except for the long uphill segment between St Leonard and Grimisuat, they were not show stoppers.

Winning Wine Discovery: Arvine, also known as Petit Arvine, is a white grape varietal indigenous to the Valais region, and very rarely found elsewhere. It is nicely crisp, with unique mineral and citrus flavors. All combined to form a memorable palate of tangy, salty, and slightly sweet (due to ripe, white stone fruit flavors), making a uniquely delicious wine.

 

From the Chemin du Vignoble, Switzerland

 

The Rhone by Martigny

 

St Pierre de Clage, Switzerland

 

Rhone River Valley by Sion

 

  1. The Place: Italy, Bozen/Bolzano

The Activity: Cycling the Weinradroute Nord/Itinerario Nord/Vino e Bici circuit

Why this One: Set in the beautiful Dolomites in the well-regarded Suedtirol/Alto Adige wine region of northern Italy, this district is much less frequented by tourists than many other regions of Italy. But that is not to say it is not visited. It is a popular spot for vacationing Germans and Austrians who take full advantage of the area’s great hiking and biking trails, and the good and plentiful lodging opportunities. In fact, this itinerary is just one of three interconnected (via the Etsch/Adige bike trail) wine-themed cycling circuits.  Thus, while the German names might confuse those not familiar with the rich cultural history of this area, relax – it is still Italy after all – enjoy the great weather of this sunny side of the Alps and take the time to cycle all three!

Caveats: There are some segments of street cycling along narrow roads, with little or no shoulders. Bring a good map or navigation device, as the trail markings were not always where they needed to be.

Winning Wine Discovery: Lagrein is a red grape varietal grown both in the Suedtirol and the neighboring Trentino region. It vinifies as a red wine that produces powerful red berry aromas and flavors.

 

Finally, the Sentiero Valtellina gets an honorable mention here. The trail itself is marvelously laid out along the river valley floor, with views of vertiginous mountainsides, covered with vineyards on the lower stretches, and followed by forests and snow-capped peaks. But most impressive is the fact that five communities work together to keep this trail in great shape, and unusually for Italy, much of this trail’s itinerary is on dedicated bike path!

Siebeneich / Settequerce, Northern Italy

 

Bozen / Bolzano: Festival Musicians

 

The Adige / Etsch River Valley, Italy

 

Castle Firmian Above the Adige

Bubbles!

 

The Alsatians call their sparkling wines Cremant. But these were not the only bubbles (“bulles”) that I found along this “Bulles et Bugatti” cycling itinerary. There were wineries and taverns offering the Cremant of Alsace, of course. But equally enjoyable were the bubbling creeks along much of the way, from the Dachsteinerbach, the Bruche and its canal, the Mossig, Frankenbach and Kehlbach, finally, the Stillbach, (it wasn’t), a melodious stream bubbling its way to the Bruche.

Confluence: Stillbach, Muehlbach and the Bruche

 

The Bruche empties into the Ill, a tributary to the Rhine, by Strasbourg. Starting in the Vosges mountains, it ultimately flows by the vineyards in the foothills of the Vosges, before entering the flat fields surrounding Strasbourg. This geography lesson just to let you know that the itinerary did have some hills, but also some very flat stretches. Especially memorable for its peaceful, rural aspect was the section riding along the Bruche Canal, a paved and beautifully maintained bike path. It is even possible to follow this trail all the way to the heart of Strasbourg!

Along the Bruche Canal

 

But this itinerary also included the hills and dales in the heart of the Bas Rhin vineyards. Departing Molsheim, and passing Dachstein, a medieval walled and effectively moated village, the ride proceeds mostly on a flat bike path, which is a delight, to the canal. The hills begin where the canal ends, at Soulz-les Bains.

Dachstein: Manmade Walls, Natural Moat

 

As the name implies, there is a spa in Soulz, a small village with a wonderful bakery, and Lucien Doriath’s excellent restaurant dedicated to foie gras. (Don’t worry, you can work it all off while on the numerous hiking and cycling trails passing through the village.) In addition to the Bruche and its canal, the Mossig also runs through this area. In fact, this whole itinerary sits in a watershed, and water is impossible to avoid.

Sunlit Vineyards by Soulz-les-Bains

 

From Soulz, the itinerary climbs. As it does, vineyards replace fields, and the wine village of Bergbieten with its Grand Cru vineyard appears. Balbronn, another well-known wine village, is picturesquely surrounded by vineyards. Between there and Flexbourg, the higher elevations of the Vosges mountains come into view providing magnificent photo opportunities.

Beyond the Vines: Fields and Vosges

 

Once out of the hills, more rivers and streams appear. A marvelous confluence of several of these appear on the approach to Dinsheim sur Bruche. I cycled along the Stillbach, to where it joins the Bruche, then over the Muhlbach to cross the Bruche once again just before re-entering Molsheim. On the outskirts is the Bugatti factory. Bugatti was founded in Molsheim, and it still produces fantastic cars of distinction there. I must confess though, I saw few cars, much less Bugatti ones (the least expensive model starts at over two million dollars), while cycling, making this a relatively car free itinerary overall.

Molsheim: Bugatti Plant

 

Molsheim is a small town, but the largest in this area. It is known to the wine world as the site of the Grand Cru Bruderthal, a “production” site as much esteemed locally as the Bugatti plant. The town itself boasts a couple of charming squares, fronted by historic and attractive half-timbered buildings. It is a nice place to base, if spending some time in the area. It has several restaurants serving good food and local wines, as well as a couple of wineries. Fortunately, all food and wine offerings, even the Cremant d’Alsace wines,  cost only miniscule fractions of the cost of a Bugatti, hence may be happily enjoyed by all!

Bulles et Bugatti: Trail in a Nutshell

 

Trail Name: Bulles et Bugatti; AKA BL 312

Trail Type: A mid-distance circuit bicycle itinerary; well-maintained surfaces, much of it paved, however no trail specific marking throughout the itinerary.

Length:

Total – 33 kilometers/ 20.5 miles

Convenient to: Molsheim, Strasbourg, Bas Rhin, Alsace, France

Marking: None specific to the itinerary. Some sections do have the typical green and white cyclist markings for a bicycle path to serve as a guide.

Trail Description: A well thought out itinerary through mostly rural landscapes with a variety of flat and hilly sections, vineyard, field and urban terrain, some on minimally trafficked road sectors, and some on fairly long stretches of vehicle-free bicycle path or dedicated bicycle lane.

Trailhead: Molsheim, Rue de Strasbourg, Porte des Forgerons

Parking:

Molsheim: R de la Commanderie x R Ernest Friedrich (closest to trailhead); Rue des Sports, by the open-air pool

Dorlisheim: Chemin des Moissons, Rue Mercure, north and south, in a mall area

Mutzig: Place de la Gare, Rue du Dr Schweitzer,

Balbronn: R du Fronhof (at the upper/higher end)

Public Transportation Options:

Rail: Frequent regional trains (TER) connect Strasbourg and Molsheim

Bus: Numbers 234 and 236 connect Molsheim with surrounding villages

See the comment below

Suggested Stages: Not applicable

Trail Itinerary-Reference Points: (Counterclockwise)

Molsheim: R. de Strasbourg x Avenue de la Gare, R. Charles Mistler, past Camping Municipal, over Bruche, along D93/D30; Dachstein: D30; Egerstein: Along Canal de la Bruche to Wolxheim; Wolxheim : R de Molsheim; Avolsheim: cycle path to Grotte d’Avolsheim, R. du Dompeter, R. de la Gare, Impasse de la Roseliere, cycle path; Soultz les Bains: R. de Molsheim/D422, D275: Dangolsheim: D275/Rte du Vin (past the Lavoir, or laundry basin); Bergbieten: D275/Rue des Vosges; Balbronn: D275/R. du Château, R. de la Foret, Rte de Flexbourg; Flexbourg: Rte de Flexbourg-R. des Acacias, R. de la Paix, R. des Seigneurs/D118; Still: D118/Rte de Flexbourg, Grande Rue; Dinsheim: D118, D392/ R. du General De Gaulle, past the Chapel of St Wendelin; Mutzig: Blvd Clemenceau; cross the Bruche, still on D392, past the Gare de Mutzig, Rte de Strasbourg; Faubourg des Vosges; Dorlisheim: Grand Rue, Avenue de la Gare/D392; Molsheim: D392; Altdorf: Chemin de la Blieth, R. des Romains, R. des Pres, R. Principale; Molsheim: R. Jean Mermoz, cycle path paralleling Rte Ecospace, D2422/R. de la Commanderie, past the Gare de Molsheim

Representative Trail Photos:

Dedicated Bike Path Along a Road

 

Representative Segment: Road Riding

 

Sample: Section of Unpaved Surface

 

Restrooms:

Molsheim: Passage de la Post x Avenue de la Gare, about 50 meters west of the chapel in the parking lot by the old town gate “Tour des Forgerons”

Attractions on or near Trail:

Molsheim: Musee de la Chartreuse, focuses on millennia of history and traditions of the Bruche Valley, while another section covers the history of Bugatti (the other half of the name of this route), its cars and its connection to Molsheim.

Tasting along the Trail:

Wolxheim, Avolsheim, Soulz-les-Bains, Balbronn and Bergbieten are well-known wine villages with several wineries in each. Additionally, Molsheim is the largest town in the area, with several taverns and restaurants serving local wines.

Alternative Options:

Hiking: The circuit hike called Trotele, one of the Circuits of Bacchus, is a 13.6 kilometers hike through several of the same villages. See the Nutshell here.

Biking: The long distance Veloroute du Vignoble d’Alsace begins about 15 miles north in Marlenheim, and passes through Soulz-les-Bains, Molsheim and Dorlisheim, then proceeds south through other villages and towns in the Bas Rhin department. See the Nutshell here.

Additional Information:

Regional: http://www.ot-molsheim-mutzig.com/

Trail specific: https://www.alsaceavelo.fr/itineraires/boucles-locales/bl312-bulles-et-bugatti-118.html

Comments:

Although the bus and train network is good here, the 20.75 kilometer cycling path Veloroute du Canal de la Bruche (https://www.alsaceavelo.fr/itineraires/veloroutes-des-canaux-et-vignoble/veloroute-du-canal-de-la-bruche-23.html) is a fantastic and easy way for visitors in nearby downtown Strasbourg to reach this particular itinerary and this little visited vineyard area.