Tag Archives: Biking Alsace wine trails

Through Crus and Clos

 

Passing through vineyards in the Haut- Rhin department in Alsace is always delightful, especially when passing through some Grands Crus vineyards. This trail also ran by, not through, other vineyards known as clos. By definition, clos are vineyards enclosed by walls. They are special places, like the Grands Crus, each with a special pedigree, producing sought-after wines.

This circuit trail began in Rouffach, a town I had never visited. I would visit the compact historical center after my ride, tucked away from the modern main roads (D18Bis), wishing I had more time to spend there! Then again, time there would have meant taking time from some of the other equally delightful towns and villages (Hattstatt, Obermorschwihr, Eguisheim, Voegtlinshoffen, Gueberschwihr and Pfaffenheim) along the route.

Winding Alleyways of Gueberschwihr

But this circuit was also about the well-respected vineyards in this sector of the Alsace wine region. No sooner through the built-up area of Rouffach, Clos de St Landelin comes into view. Like many clos or Grands Crus, this one also spelled out its name in large letters, another mark of distinction for these special vineyards. Named after an itinerant Irish monk, Clos de St Landelin lies within the Grand Cru of Vorbourg, overlooking Rouffach. I would see this combination of Grand Cru and Clos again, further north, where the Goldert Grand Cru has the Clos de St Imer within it.

Clos St Landelin

The reason for this is simple. Merovingian kings allotted early monks large territories in pagan areas to encourage conversion, as well as to grow vines (for communion wine). Both vines and conversion went from strength to strength, and soon Alsace was known for both. The circuit took me past both the former Abbey of Marbach, (over 1000 years old), and the nearby Hatschbourg Grand Cru. We have the monks to thank for the rebirth of wine -making in Alsace, and their descendants for doing such a great job of it.

Abbey of Marbach Above the Vineyards

But the height of this match-up came in Eguisheim, at the end of the early Middle Ages. This village which still retains its medieval look, saw a local man, Bruno von Egisheim-Dagsburg, become Pope Leo IX. As son of a nobleman, I wondered, if as a child, he lived in one of the three castles high above the town. (To hike there, see the Nutshell here.) Neither the palace in the center of the village, nor the Chapel of St Leo IX, dates to his era. Nonetheless, the narrow, twisted alleyways, and colorful half-timbered cottages make this a very photogenic village to visit. (Conveniently, Eguisheim marks roughly the half-way point on the circuit, and is the site of a Wolfberger wine cellar – and I love their Cremant!)

Path Leaving Eguisheim

Leaving Eguisheim, up a short but rather steep path (maybe too much Cremant?), I found myself in the middle of the Eichberg Grand Cru. Monks owned this one too, at one point. Shortly after, I was cycling through the Hatschbourg then the Goldert Grands Crus, cruising into Gueberschwihr in no time. This attractive village is home to the Ernest Burn winery. The current owner, whose family’s wine-making tradition dates to 1620, showed me around, and offered more tastes of his Grand Cru Goldert and Clos St Imer wines than I was good for me, at that point. But they were distinctively perfumed and lovely to taste.

Scene from Gueberschwihr’s Main Square

Fortunately, to return to Rouffach, there were only about five kilometers (3.25 miles) to go. With the beautiful weather and views, and having combined the best of both the cultural and viticultural worlds, I found this a really enjoyable, and quite memorable, half-day ride that I was sorry to finish.

Paysage a Bicyclette: Trail in a Nutshell

 

Trail Name: Paysage a Bicyclette

Trail Type: Mid-distance circuit biking trail; much of it paved and car-free, well maintained, fairly good signage throughout (but at least bring a map, if nothing else).

Length:

Total: 31 kilometers/ 19.5 miles

Convenient to: Colmar, Alsace, France

Marking:

White pointy-ends rectangular sign with dark letters: Paysage a Bicyclette in script writing

Paysage a Bicyclette Trail Signage

Trail Description: A slightly challenging trail through vines and villages in a relatively quiet section of the Alsatian wine region, offering plenty of opportunities to reconnect with nature, admire the wide expanses, and taste wine while exploring small towns and villages along the route!

Trailhead:

Official: Rouffach: Mairie (Town Hall), on Place de la Republique

Alternative: Eguisheim: Grande Rue

Parking:

Eguisheim: Grande Rue, large paved lot, reasonable fees

Rouffach: Place des Sports, large paved lot, with overflow parking nearby, free

Public Transportation Options:

Rail: SNCF regional trains (TER), regularly connect Rouffach (station less than one kilometer from the trail) with Colmar and Strasbourg to the north, and Mulhouse to the south

Suggested Stages:

Not applicable

Trail Itinerary-Reference Points:

Rouffach: R du Marechal Joffre/D18Bis-R Claude Ignace Callinet, R. Louis Pasteur-R. des Vosges-Route de Westhalten; Cross Muehlweg, onto track named Saegmattenweg; Gundolsheim: D15/Route de Rouffach-R. du Nord-Schlittweg-Gundolsheimerweg; onto Holderhuerstleweg, over train tracks, hard right but continue on trail, Rouffach: cross D8, Heiligkreuzweg-Staaweg; cross tracks, then parallel them on Gaertleweg; Metzgermatten and Kiffmatten fields; woods, cross D83 highway; Hattstatt: D121/Route du Vin; Alte Staatstrasse, Herrenstr trail, Rte de Herrlisheim/D1bis; Eguisheim: D14/Grande Rue, R. du Muscat-R du Vin, unnamed trail to left after R. du Buhl; Obermorschwihr: Dagsbourg Hohlweg, R du Dagsbourg-R des Pres; fields and vineyards; Gueberschwihr: R du Nord, R Basse-Route de Pfaffenheim; Gaensbrunnweg trail, then first right; Pfaffenheim: R du Muscat, Grande Rue-Drotfeldweg-Kopfacherweg; Alte Strasse through vineyards-R. Louis Pasteur

Representative Trail Photos:

Typical paved trail section
Typical Unpaved Trail Section

Restrooms:

Rouffach: R. du 4eme Spahis Marocains (by the bus stop)

Eguisheim: by the paid parking lot (see parking above), and in the old center in Cr Unterlinden

Attractions on or near Trail:

Eguisheim:

The Little Train will take passengers through vineyards as well as the town

The Wolfberger Cave has a discovery room with some explanations and photos, in addition to a large boutique for lots of its wine and wine-related products.

Tasting along the Trail:

Wineries, mostly family-owned, in every village – you will be spoiled for choice. Do not hesitate to visit one (or several) between roughly 9-1200, and 14-1800 on most days (some including Sunday mornings during tourism season)!

Alternative Options:

Hiking:

Eguisheim: Vignoble et Chateaux, a short but steep in places trail that passes through a great variety of scenery and terrain, with great views. See the Nutshell here.

Soultzmatt or Westhalten: https://www.visorando.com/randonnee-promenade-dans-le-vignoble-de-la-vallee-/ thru vineyards, listed as medium difficulty (hills, not much shade)

Additional Information:

Regional: https://www.visit.alsace/en/253001422-tourist-office-pays-deguisheim-et-de-rouffach-office-from-rouffach/

Trail (segment) specific: https://www.cirkwi.com/fr/circuit/536654-le-paysage-a-bicyclette

Comments:

A fantastic area for wines, history, and hiking and biking in nature.