Wine Notes: Mittelhaardt’s Freinsheim

 

What I Learned:

The Pfalz wine region in the southern Rhineland Palatinate (Rheinland Pfalz, in German) has two divisions: Suedliche Weinstrasse and Mittelhaardt. The Mittelhaardt has some of the best-known vineyards. While the official German quality system does not necessarily recognize particular sites as being better than others, many vineyards, and even sections of vineyards, have names. Some of these named parcels, at least among the vintners, have better reputations than others. Thus, even though the official quality system does not focus on particular sites as superior, the VDP (Verband Deutscher Praedikats- und Qualitaetsweinguter) association members will name particular sites on their wine bottle labels as an Erste Lage (loosely equivalent to a Premier Cru site in France), or as a Grosse Lage, identified on the label as GG (for Grosses Gewaechs) (again, in VDP terms, loosely equivalent to a Grand Cru site in France). Some of the sites designated by VDP vintners as Grosse Lage in the Mittelhaardt around Bad Duerkheim include Bad Duerkheim’s Michelsberg parcel, and Ungstein’s Weilberg and Herrenberg parcels. Although Freinsheim does not have any Grosse Lage, it does have the Erste Lage  of Schwarzes Kreuz, and the named parcel of Musikantenbuckel. The names can date from a long way back, and often have an interesting history associated with them. For example, the Musikantenbuckel received its name from the practice of itinerant musicians of yore travelling to Freinsheim, and beginning to play their instruments, once they reached that spot. (Being on the downside of a slope – good for vines, by the way – from that point apparently, townspeople could both see and hear the music men approaching through the vines.)

What I Tasted:

2016 Blanc de Noir, Freinsheimer Musikantenbuckel, Trocken, Qualitaetswein, Weingut Osswald Gaul: A dry red wine (Pinot Noir) vinified white with ginger ale color; toasted nuts nose, white stone fruit and slight red berry flavor; tangy finish, with no tannins.

2016 Rose, Feinherb, Qualitaetswein, Weingut Osswald Gaul: An off-dry rose wine, with light salmon color; sweet cherry and red berry nose, flavors the same; very mild tannins.

2016 Dornfelder, Trocken, Qualitaetswein, Wein- und Sekt- gut Kissel: A dry red wine with dark ruby color; a smoke and pronounced spice nose, with clove, hint of nutmeg, vanilla, dried cherry flavor, medium minus tannins, with a smooth, medium length finish. Most interesting of the bunch.

2014 Merlot, Trocken, Qualitaetswein, Weingut Kassner-Simon: A dry red wine with dark garnet color; oak nose, with vanilla and cherry flavors; high minus tannins.