When the itinerant musicians of Mackenbach, in the Pfalz, crested the ridge from the northwest, they beheld the town of Freinsheim below. They announced their arrival with lively music, letting the town know they had arrived. Over the next couple of days, they would play, for coins, wine and food. Freinsheim, one of the northern most wine villages on the Deutsche Weinstrasse, has named this section of vineyard the “Musikanten-Buckel”, or the hump of hill where the musicians began to play. Freinsheim is also one of many villages along the Deutsche Weinstrasse that has several festivals throughout the year. Two of them involve “wine wandering”, which is how I came be in the village.

Traditionally, the January wine wandering trail follows mostly along an established trail called the Musikantenbuckel  Wanderweg. But every year, on the last weekend of January, the trail is identified as the Rotweinwanderung (Red wine wandering).  So, on a cold, dark and grey winter afternoon, I, and hundreds of other people, dressed warmly, with sturdy waterproof boots, set off along the trail, which starts in the village.

The atmosphere was indeed festive, as people moved at their own pace, into the Musikantenbuckel area, looking forward to the local hearty red wines. Music, laughter, and merry voices made themselves heard as the tide of people moved along the trail. Paces slowed as the incline up the hill past gnarled old vines steepened, and as the first wine huts appeared.

 

Several vintners establish “huts” along the Musikantenbuckel trail route, selling food and wine. A quick glance at the food on offer showed Goulash, onion, pea, or lentil soups to start, and then there were different kinds of grilled sausages, or other cuts of meat, some even accompanied by red wine sauce. There were dumplings smothered in mushroom sauce, or cheese sauce. Or hikers could choose a simple repast of bread and cheese of various sorts. Huts towards the end of the route offered coffee or tea, and of course, some cake to go with that. Every hut, without exception, offered several types of wine.

 

Before long, strangers were joking like old friends, as everyone sat down wherever there was a seat (often in heated tents), to enjoy the bountiful offerings. While the weather was cold, the atmosphere was warm.  Continuing across the crest afforded a nice view of the village below. While now larger, and with some modern buildings interspersed among the older ones, the view is similar to what the musicians would have seen.

 

Coming off the crest, the trail continues through vineyards, and ultimately back into the village. It is a wonderful (and obviously popular) way to spend a winter afternoon, sipping the wines, eating the food, and enjoying the company along the trail. I am already looking forward to the September event, which promises more of the same through yet more of Freinsheim’s well-known vineyards.