Wine Notes: Switzerland’s Sankt Gallen

 

What I Learned

The Swiss Appellation d’Origine Controlee Sankt Gallen in eastern Switzerland, has two districts, both in Sankt Gallen Canton: the Oberland and the Rheintal. The Rheintal district lies on the west side of the Rhine River valley before it enters Lake Constance and consists of parcels in select spots between Rheineck and Rebstein, along with a smaller section by Bad Ragaz. Less than 130 hectares (320 acres) of vineyards exist in total. Planted on slopes that rise (somewhat steeply by Berneck and Pfaefers) from the valley floor, the highest vines are in Pfaefers. Mueller-Thurgau and Blauburgunder (Pinot Noir) are the most planted varietals.

The area around Berneck-Au has perhaps the greatest concentration of vineyards, to include several named ones. Monstein, along the Monsteiner Rebweg trail, is one of them. Over 10 varietals, both green and red, have been planted here.

The red varietal Marechal Foch grows here. This hybrid, created in France (Alsace) in 1911, crosses a Goldriesling, and a Millarder et Grasser. Known for its early ripening and resistance to cold, it does well in climates like the Sankt Gallen wine region’s, as well as places such as Canada, upper New York State, and Oregon, where it is grown to an even greater extent.

Another red varietal is Baco Noir, created in France in 1894. It can do well in cooler regions. Early budding though, leaves it susceptible to spring frosts. Nowadays in Europe, only a few growers plant these vines. In North America, especially in New York state and neighboring Canadian provinces, it is much more extensively planted.

 

What I Tasted

2016 Pinot Noir, Federweiss, AOC Sankt Gallen, Weingut Tobias Schmid und Sohn (Berneck): A dry red wine vinified white, with a medium gold color with a defined pink hue; nose of vanilla and strawberry, with strawberry, vanilla, apricot and peach flavors; no tannins to speak of, but a backbone of acidity and a tart finish.

2013 Pinot Noir, Sternthaler, AOC Sankt Gallen, Ochsentorkel Weinbau (Thal): A dry red wine with medium ruby red color; nose of red berry, with cherry and spice flavors; medium tannins, surprisingly smooth.

2010 Tobias Rouge G3, AOC Sankt Gallen, Weingut Tobias Schmid und Sohn (Berneck): A dry red wine cuvee (Pinot Noir and Merlot), with a deeply opaque dark garnet color; wood, prunes and vanilla nose, with vanilla, bacon, leather and wood flavors; smooth, medium tannins, for this memorable wine. (Tasted in 2018)