My last trip to Burgundy’s Cote d’Or region focused on the northern part, the Cote de Nuits, and its red wines; therefore, I devoted this trip to the southern part, the Cote de Beaune, and its delicious white wines.
Meursault is a small town that has given its name to some of the best known Burgundy white wines in the world. Its wine makers produce Chardonnay exclusively. To gain familiarity with its Chardonnay terrain, I chose one of 16 trails in the area, the one that took me through Meursault, its vineyards, and nearby villages.
From its upper most point (and I had never realized on previous trips that Meursault actually sits on a hill), there are scenic views of many of its famous named vineyards. But as the trail climbed higher, into the small wine village of Monthelie, the views became expansive. Other villages, Volnay, Pommard, and even the outskirts of the small city of Beaune, came into view.
Atop a rise, the village of Monthelie’s historic center is an oasis of calm, far from major or even minor thoroughfares. It exudes a sense of timelessness. From Monthelie, the trail climbed into the wooded heights near the crest of the ridgeline overlooking the plains to the east. Boxwoods grow with wild abandon here, and filled the air with their unique scent. Majestic pines took over at the highest elevations. Boxwoods, pines and grapevines all seem to share an affinity for poorer soils, and this trail had all three in abundance.
The trail then followed through a high field. Beyond this field, there were no vineyards. The extent of viticulture in this area clearly marked by the mostly-wooded ridgelines to the west and north. This was a tranquil and beautiful section of rural Burgundy most tourists don’t see.
Civilization in the form of the village of Auxey-Duresses was only about thirty minutes away though. A quiet village, it has a charm born of old stone buildings, looking soft and golden in the sunlight. Effortlessly picturesque, and a well-known wine village in its own right, it merits a couple of detours to explore its little squares and peaceful side streets.
After crossing a small stream, the trail entered the vineyards once again. The meandering trail often took the higher route, affording views of Meursault from different vantage points. Church and town hall, occupying prominent side-by-side positions on the hilltop really stood out against the clear blue skies I was lucky enough to enjoy that February day.
Re-entering Meursault, street names indicated the way to some of the more famed cru vineyards: Rue du Clos de Mazeray, Rue de la Goutte d’Or, Rue du Moulin Landlin. Passing along the trail through the center of town provided me the opportunity to visit not only the helpful tourist office, but also bakeries, delicatessens, wine shops, and bars with great local wine selections by the glass – Which is where I tasted some marvelous Meursaults at the end of this glorious trail.