Wine Notes: Swiss Aargau Wines

 

What I Learned

The Aargau Wine Region in Switzerland essentially follows the Aare River as it meanders toward the Rhine. Soft, rounded hills where limestone predominates, and a relatively mild climate help create the environment here that favors vine cultivation. The region is sub-divided into 7 distinct vineyard areas, mostly ranging on the south-facing hills in valleys branching off the Aare.

Wine has been drunk in this area since at least the arrival of the Romans. (Brugg/Windisch claims to be the oldest town in Switzerland, founded by Romans in the beginning of the First Century A.D.) Archeological finds in nearby areas settled by Romans (notably in Augst, formerly known as Augusta Raurica) include wine cups and amphora.

However, a viticultural tradition did not really establish itself until monastic settlements developed in the area in the Middle Ages. Now the Aargau boasts some 400 hectares (about 1000 acres) of vineyards, across 72 communities, involving some 750 vintners and their families. While this figure is down from the mid-nineteenth century high of some 2700 hectares, today’s production makes up in passion and quality, with its local association sponsoring several wine events throughout the year, and creating prize winning wines.

Over 40 different varietals are produced here. The most important red varieties are: Pinot Noir (known here as Blauburgunder), and Regent. The white varieties include Pinot Gris, Kerner, Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc, Riesling x Sylvaner (known elsewhere as Mueller-Thurgau) and Gewurztraminer. An unusual varietal, which sadly I neither saw nor tasted, is the Raeuschling.

One of the more interesting wines here is the Blauburgunder Federweisser. Taking Pinot Noir grapes, the wine is pressed with its skins, but not left to ferment with them. The resulting wine is white colored, but with a rich taste, and very mild acidity, and no tannins to taste.

 

What I Tasted

2014 Blauburgunder, Klingnauer Federweisser, AOC Aargau, Weinbaugenossenschaft Klingnau: A dry, light gold colored wine made with Pinot Noir grapes; a sweet nose of honey; and hints of sweet, ripe berries, mild acidity, medium mouthfeel with slight prickling on the tongue.

2014 Sauvignon Blanc, AOC Aargau, Weingut Alter Berg (Tegerfelden): A dry white wine with medium light gold color; flavor notes of citrus, and a steely minerality to it; tart finish.

2013 Klingnauer Blauer Burgunder, AOC Aargau, Weinbaugenossenschaft Klingnau: A dry red wine with light plus ruby red color, nose slightly spicy with hints of tobacco; dark, dried cherry and vanilla flavors; medium tannins.