Wine Notes: Monferrato Varietals

 

What I Learned

The Monferrato wine district lies within Italy’s Piedmont wine region. The DOC system recognizes various unique varietals and some interesting wine production techniques. The wines from here are not only high quality overall, but also closely related to the land and the history of this district.

The hilly landscape of the Monferrato is well-suited to viticulture. In addition to international varietals such as Chardonnay, Merlot, Pinot Nero and Muscat, as well as Piedmont favorites such as Nebbiolo and Barbera, the Monferrato has some not-as-well known varietals. Three local red varietals include Grignolino, Freisa, and Malvasia di Casorzo, (not to be confused with Malvasia Nero).

Historical documents record that the Freisa and the Grignolino varietal have been grown in the region  for centuries. Malvasia di Casorzo apparently arrived later. Of all of these, the acreage of Malvasia di Casorzo remains the lowest. All three have remained mostly local. Although Freisa vines may be found as far to the east as Vicenza, and some Malvasia di Casorzo is grown as far to the east as Emilia Romagna, the vast majority of these three grapes come only from this corner of the Monferrato.

These grapes produce varietal wines as unique to the taste as they are to the land. The Monferrato Freisa DOC wine is a lively, dry red varietal wine with raspberry and floral notes. Grignolino del Monferrato Casalese is another DOC wine produced from the eponymous varietal. It is a dry red wine with interesting pepper notes. Finally, there is the Malvasia di Casorzo DOC wine. This is another unique red wine with floral notes, and usually low alcohol. The DOC regulations allow wine-makers to add up to 10 percent of Grignolino and/or Freisa to it. Considering that Malvasia di Casorzo, Freisa and Grignolino del Monferrato are distinctive local varieties, this blending could arguably produce uniquely characteristic wines, a true blending of samples of wine from the district.

 

What I Tasted

Spumante, Panta Rei, DOC, Cantina di Casorzo (Casorzo): A semi-dry sparkling red wine (100% Malvasia di Casorzo) with fine, lively bubbles and intense raspberry color; fresh, raspberry nose, and in addition to red berries, an interesting stewed red berries flavor.

2015 Grignolino d’Asti, DOC, Cantina di Casorzo (Casorzo): A dry red wine with light ruby red color; slightly raw nut nose, with smoky, red berry flavors; very high tannins.

2015 Malvasia di Casorzo, DOC, Cantina di Casorzo (Casorzo): A sweet, red wine with dark red raspberry color; intense rose, sweet cinnamon and raspberry nose and flavors; very mild tannins, very smooth. Slightly effervescent on the palate.

2014 Freisa, Monferrato Freisa DOC, Marco Botto (Sala Monferrato): A dry red wine with dark purple-red color; raspberry nose and raspberry and floral flavor notes; medium light tannins; surprisingly dry given the overall sweet nose.

2014 Grignolino del Monferrato Casalese, DOC, Gaudio (Vignale Monferrato): A dry red wine with light ruby red color; a slight redberry and spice nose, cherry and vanilla flavors; high tannins.