Wine Notes: Markgraeflerland I

 

What I Learned

The Markgraeflerland wine district is along the southern-most section of the Rhine as it borders France and Switzerland, in the wine region of Baden, in the state of Baden-Wuerttemberg, Germany. It is the southern-most wine producing district in Germany. It begins in Weil am Rhein, just outside the Swiss city of Basel, and continues almost to Freiburg. The vineyards lie on the foothills between the river valley floor, and the Black Forest mountains to the east. About 3000 hectares, and 90 cooperatives, cellars and wine estates are dedicated to the production of this district’s wine, carried out the in villages and small towns that dot this area.

While about 30% of the production is dedicated to red varietals such as Spaetburgunder (Pinot Noir), Merlot and Regent, the remaining 70% of the production is dedicated to white varietals. Chardonnay, Pinot Gris and Pinot Blanc are among the most cultivated. But take special notice of another white grape variety pretty much unique in Germany to this area, the Gutedel. Known also as Chasselas in France, and Fendant in French-speaking Switzerland, the origins of the Gutedel grape still are not clear. (Some older theories even suggested an Egyptian origin.) However modern DNA testing along with statistical analysis seem to indicate that this grape has existed for centuries in western Switzerland, around the area of Lake Geneva. Given that Geneva is less than three hours from Baden’s Markgraeflerland, it is no wonder the grape is cultivated and vinified here with such enthusiasm.

Two more comments on Gutedel. A rare red-colored Gutedel grape mutation known as Roter Gutedel produces a rose-colored wine. In 1939, the nearby Staatliche Weinbau-Institut in Freiburg im Breisgau, crossed Gutedel with Silvaner stocks to produce Nobling. The wine from this crossing results in a slightly heftier white wine than either Gutedel or Sylvaner alone. Needless to say, Nobling wine is rarely found outside Baden, so try some while in the area.

 

What I Tasted

2015 Weisser Gutedel, Qualitaetswein, Trocken, Winzerkeller Auggener Schaef (Auggen): A dry white wine with pale white-gold color; floral nose with floral flavors; mild acidity.

2014 Gutedel, Oetlinger Sonnhohle, Qualitaetswein, Trocken, Bezirkskellerei Markgraeflerland (Efringen-Kirchen): A dry white wine with medium gold color; mostly neutral nose, but hints of slight apple; white floral flavors with a hint of oak; medium plus acidity.

2014 Weisser Gutedel, Qualtitaetswein, Trocken, Heitersheimer Maltesergarten, Weingut Josef Walz (Heitersheim): A dry white wine with light gold color; citrus nose, with floral and nutty notes, mild acidity, but medium body.

2014 Roter Gutedel, Qualitaetswein, Trocken, Winzerkeller Auggener Schaef (Auggen): A dry white wine with very light salmon color; a sweet nose of ripe peach and Rainier cherry, with sweet cherry and vanilla flavors; very mild tannins, with a smooth, medium finish.

2014 Gutedel, Binzener Sonnhole, Qualitaetswein, Trocken, Weingut Aenis: A dry white wine with light golod color; a floral and mineral nose, with white floral, and vanilla flavors; mild acidity, smooth overall

2013 Gutedel, Qualitaetswein, Trocken, Winzergenossenschaft Britzingen-Markgraeflerland (Muellheim): A dry white wine with light gold color; a slightly floral, citrus and toasted nut nose and flavors of the same; mild acidity, well balanced overall

2013 Gutedel, Auggener Schaef, QbA, Trocken, Winzerkeller Laufener Altenberg (Laufen): A dry white wine with medium gold color; with ripe pear and peach notes; very smooth and mild, with virtually no acidity; well-balanced overall.

2011 Gutedel, Seefelder Maltesergarten, Qualitatswein, Trocken, Graf von Kageneck (Breisach): A dry white wine with medium gold color; a hint of floral notes on the nose, with vanilla and slightly fruity flavors; a smooth, light finish.

2011 Nobling, Mullheimer Sonnhalder, Trocken, Weingut Engler (Muellheim): A dry white wine, with medium gold color; an aromatic ripe, white stone fruit nose, and flavors of sweet spices and perfectly ripe peaches; nice finish, smooth body, refreshing on the tongue. Perfectly chilled, it was fantastic on a warm summer day!