What I Learned

“Hermitage” as in Appellation Hermitage Controlee (AOC), is one of the most well-known wine appellations on the planet. It is located in the small town of Tain l’Hermitage, France, (which is also home to the chocolatier Valrhona). Situated on the left bank of the Rhone River, which faces west, at a spot where it bends dramatically, producing a southern exposure for many parcels as well. The vineyards rise up steeply behind the town, which itself lies on a narrow alluvial plain.

The AOC vineyards rise to reach the iconic chapel. These vine-bearing slopes produce wine known in Roman times as wines of Vienne (a town about 60 kilometers upriver). The current name, Hermitage, is a reminder of the presence of a Thirteenth Century knight, Gaspard of Sterimberg, who after a stint in the Albigensian Crusades, decided to atone for his sins by living the life of a pious aesthete atop the formidably steep hill.

The hill is primarily granitic, overlaid in places with a complex mix of soils: pebbles, clay layers, loess and alluvial accretions. Overall, this terroir provides ideal conditions for Syrah. Along this relatively small hillside though, some parcels are better known than others. Some of the names often appear on bottles – most famously l’Hermite and la Chapelle. Others include les Greffieux, le Meal, les Beaumes, les Grandes Vignes, les Bessards, Plantiers, les Murets, Peleat, Maison Blanche, la Rocoule, la Croix, and l’Homme.

Appellation Hermitage Controlee wines are both red and white. They can offer famously long cellaring potential, which given the often-high tannins in the red wines, is quite fortuitous, as over time, the wine can develop interesting flavors such as dark chocolate, tobacco, leather and coffee. About three-quarters of the AOC production is red wine, and one-quarter is white wine. The red wine is predominantly Syrah, to which other varietals may be added to produce an AOC wine blend. Roussane and Marsanne are the white varietals which make up the white AOC wines. Interestingly, the juice of these two grapes may also be added, up to 15%, to the red AOC wines.

 

What I Tasted

2015 Marsanne, Chante-Alouette, Appellation Hermitage Controlee, M. Chapoutier: A dry white wine with light yellow-gold color; mild nose of resin; flavors of fruit, smoke and toast, medium- acidity.

2015 Syrah, Sizeranne, Appellation Hermitage Controlee, Maison M. Chapoutier: A dry red wine with dark purple color; a smoky red berry nose, and meaty, fruity flavors; high tannins.

2014 Le Chevalier de Sterimberg, Appellation Hermitage Controlee, Paul Jaboulet Aine: A dry white wine cuvee about 65% Marsanne/35%Roussanne), with medium rich lemon-yellow color; an herbal and mineral nose, with vanilla, honey and green apple flavors, a tart green apple finish, with medium- acidity.

2013 Syrah, La Petite Chapelle, Appellation Hermitage Controlee, Paul Jaboulet Aine: A dry red wine with medium plus garnet color; a berry and floral nose, with dried red berry, prune and slight oak flavors; high- tannins.

2011 Syrah, Hermitage, Appellation Hermitage Controlee, Cave de Tain: A dry red wine with purple-red color; rich nose of ripe dark red fruits, and a slight bit of oak; prune and red fruits flavors; medium tannins.

2011 Marsanne, Au Coeur des Siecles, Appellation Hermitage Controlee, Cave de Tain: A dry white wine with medium gold color; nose of toast and resin, with nutmeg, and clove, nutmeg and cardamom flavors, with a hint of smoke; mildly acidic, with a medium finish.

2009 Marsanne, De l’Oree, Appellation Hermitage Controlee, M. Chapoutier: A dry white wine with dark yellow-gold color; an intense nose of honey and a slight bit of oak, and rich honey and ripe white fruit flavors; very mild acidity, and smooth, long finish.

2007 La Chapelle, Appellation Hermitage Controlee, Paul Jaboulet Aine: A dry red wine with dark minus garnet color; leather, smoke, dark cherry nose, with chocolate, dried cherry and smoky flavors; high- tannins, but very smooth, and delicious.