What I Learned
Beaujolais falls within the wine region of Burgundy, although it is outside the political boundaries of the region. It has three different quality levels: a simple Beaujolais produced in the southern-most reaches of this area; a Beaujolais-Village appellation; and in the northern part of this wine region, ten villages with their own appellations due to their special crus. It is a singular geological area of often steep hills and hidden valleys. Schist and granitic soils in the Beaujolais give a distinctive minerality to the wines. The best of these wines, the ten villages/areas of appellation (Brouilly, Chenas, Cote de Brouilly, Chiroubles, Fleurie, Julienas, Morgon, Moulin a Vent, Regnie, Saint-Amour) offer good value for quality wines. Overall, there are 12 different appellations within the Beaujolais region to look for on a bottle label.
The Beaujolais wine region presents some unique aspects to wine enthusiasts. First is the grape: Gamay, an ancient offshoot of pinot noir. It is fairly hardy, and yet can produce wines of decent depth and character. (But for all that, it was not much loved by the Duke of Burgundy, who prohibited its cultivation in duchy vineyards in 1395.) Gamay is by far the dominant grape in the region today, but the Chardonnay (white) varietal is also grown.
Another unusual aspect is the method of training the grapevines. It is pruned severely after the harvest, and the cuttings are usually burned to prevent the spread of disease. The resulting pruned shape is called gobelet, and with its upturned four arms, the vines in winter can appear like an upturned goblet. In full leaf, these can look like short, grape-bearing shrubs.
Other unique traits concern three aspects of wine-making in this area. Often vintners allow the grapes to ferment in vats on the stems, and without the aid of crushing mechanisms. Vintners here often promote carbonic maceration through the use of closed tanks (with little oxygen, more carbon dioxide) to make their wines.
Finally, there is the famous early bottling for many, but certainly not all, Beaujolais wines. The annual release of Beaujolais Nouveau on the third Thursday in November (just a few weeks after the harvest) is a cause for celebration throughout the world by Beaujolais fans. Look for a party near you!
What I Tasted
2014, Gamay, La Madone, Fleurie, Appellation d’Origine Protegee, Domaine des Fonds: A dry red wine with medium red color; floral nose with floral and spice flavors; medium tannins.
2013, Gamay, Chenas, AC; Coeur de Granit, Cave du Chateau de Chenas: A dry red wine with dark red color; a slight floral scent, minerality comes through, very mild tannins and low acidity.
2013, Gamay, Morgon AC, Les Charmes, Didier Desvignes: A dry red wine with dark purple-red color; scent of blackberry, slight floral notes; a bit tannic, somewhat acidic and racy.
2012, Gamay, Saint Amour, AC, Georges Deboeuf: An off-dry red wine with a very dark red color; floral scent, floral notes with a hint of blackberry on the finish; low acidity, and very slight tannins, very smooth and well-balanced overall.
2011, Gamay, Moulin a Vent, Cuvee Vieilles Vignes, (Thesaurus Collection); Cave du Chateau de Chenas: A smooth dry red wine with purple hue; slightly woody nose, slight smoky and prune notes; medium-high tannins with a medium finish.
2011, Gamay, Chenas, Cuvee Tradition, Domaine des Brureaux: A dry red wine with purple-red color; floral scent, notes of smoke and blackberry.
2011, Gamay, Fleurie, AC, Georges Deboeuf: A dry red wine with deep, dark purple-red color; a scent of smoke and blackberry, and a hint of hazelnut; smooth with very light tannins.
2011, Gamay, Julienas, AC, Chateau des Capitans: An off-dry, red wine with dark purple-red color; floral notes, mild acidity, and virtually no tannins.
2011 Gamay, Julienas, Appellation Julienas Controllee, Georges DuBoeuf: A dry red wine with dark purple color; floral nose, floral notes, medium tannins.
2010, Gamay, Saint Amour, AC, Domaine Porte du Paradis – Selection Georges Blanc: An off-dry, red wine with deep red color; a floral scent, with blackberry and floral notes; low acidity with a smooth finish.