Wine Notes: Baden’s Ortenau District I

 

What I Learned

Within the Baden wine region, there are several distinct wine areas. One of these is the Ortenau, from the famous spa town of Baden-Baden south to Gengenbach. Between these two towns, on an undulating landscape, lies bucolic countryside, punctuated by picturesque wine villages. The rolling hills which protect the grape-bearing slopes from too much wind, and the relatively mild and sunny climate, make this one of the best areas for growing grapes in Germany.

Generally speaking, in this northern Ortenau area, Riesling production predominates with about 60% of the total, Mueller-Thurgau with 30%, and Blauer Spaetburgunder accounting for the rest.

Like its neighboring wine areas, the vineyards in this area have a significant concentration of Spaetburgunder (Pinot Noir) vines, known as Blauer Spaetburgunder here.

The Ortenau grows more Riesling proportionally, than any other wine district within the Baden wine region. Riesling from this area has a unique local moniker – Klingelberger. It is a popular wine here.

Rulaender, known as Grauburgunder (Pinot Gris) in wider circles, and Mueller Thurgau round out the list of well-known and fairly widely-planted white varietals here.

While not widely planted in the district as a whole, fans of Sauvignon Blanc will find some delicious wines in and around the town of Durbach, where the vines were first brought from the French wine town of Sauternes in the 1830s.

 

What I Tasted

2015 Spaetburgunder Rose, Trocken, Hex von Dasenstein Winzergenossenschaft: A dry rose wine with light cranberry color; a fruity nose, with raspberry, cherry and mineral flavors, mild tannins with a slightly tart finish.

2014 Grauburgunder, Yburg, Trocken, Qba, Winzerhaus Stich den Buben: A dry white wine with medium gold color, a sharp citrus nose; flavors of citrus, peach and honey; a low medium acidity and a surprisingly long finish.

2014 Riesling, Neuweierer Mauerberg; Trocken, Qualitaetswein; Baden-Badener Winzergenossenschaft: A dry white wine with a medium gold color, nose a slight sweet perfume, with a hint of green fruitiness; flavors of green grapes, green apple and apricot; medium high acidity.

2014 Klingelberger (Riesling); Trocken, Qualitaetswein; Gut Naegelsfoerst: A dry white wine with medium gold color; nose mild vanilla and floral; vanilla with apricot flavors; slight spicy afternotes on the tongue; high acidity.

2012 Grauburgunder, Kabinett, Trocken, Winzerkeller Hex vom Dasenstein: A dry white wine with light plus gold color; fruity nose with white stone fruits, and even a bit of floral flavors; medium acidity with a medium mouthfeel.

2010 Riesling, Trocken, Weingut Iselin: A dry white wine with a sharp, citrus nose, and green apple flavors with a hint of turpentine. Heavier than expected mouthfeel for a Riesling.

Riesling Sekt, Pique Dame, Trocken, Baden-Badener Winzergenossenschaft: A dry white sparkling wine with light gold color; fruity nose, with peach and pear flavors; medium plus acidity.