What I Learned:
Within the Baden wine region, there are several distinct wine districts. One of these is the Ortenau, ranging on the east side of the Rhine, between roughly the famous spa town of Baden-Baden and the town of Offenburg to the south. Between these two towns, on an undulating landscape, lies bucolic countryside, punctuated by picturesque wine villages. The rolling hills, which protect the generally south and west-facing vine-covered slopes from too much wind, and the relatively mild and sunny climate, make this one of the best areas for growing grapes in Germany.
Like its neighboring wine areas, the vineyards in this area have a high concentration of Spaetburgunder (Pinot Noir) vines, known as Blauer Spaetburgunder here. Riesling grapes, again with a unique local moniker – Klingelberger, are one of this area’s well-known white varietals. The Ortenau grows more Riesling proportionally than any other wine area within the Baden wine region. Rulaender, known as Grauburgunder (Pinot Gris) in wider circles, and Mueller Thurgau round out the list of well-known and fairly widely-planted white varietals here.
One more note on Ortenauer white varietals. While not widely planted, fans of Sauvignon Blanc will find some delicious wines in and around the town of Durbach, where the vines were first brought from the French wine town of Sauternes in the 1830s.
What I Tasted:
2012 Hex vom Dasenstein, Grauburgunder Kabinett, trocken (dry) – fruity, even a bit floral, medium mouthfeel.
2012 Klingelberger Riesling, spaetlese, trocken; Oberkircher Winzer; fruity: peaches, grape, citrus, with slight minerality, richer in mouthfeel than expected.
2012 Waldulmer Spaetburgunder, a balanced combination of smoke, oak and earthiness, with a hint of berries.
2012 Waldulmer Riesling Kabinett, trocken, slight floral and vanilla notes, medium body.
2012 Oberkircher Riesling, suess, spicy with hints of vanilla, medium body.
2012 Gengenbacher Kinzigtaeler, Von Loewenberg, Grauburgunder sekt (dry) – a wonderful sparkling wine, dry, slightly fruity, light, refreshing mouthfeel.
2011 Gengenbacher Winzer e.G., Spaetburgunder, – a dry red wine, gentle on the mouth, a hint of cherry, not much personality.
2010 Iselin Riesling trocken – sour green apple taste, medium body, slight turpertine aftertaste, an interesting, but not unpleasant experience. Heavier than expected mouthfeel for a Riesling.