What I Learned

The Bas Rhin department, in the far, northeastern corner of France, can lay claim to several Grands Crus of Alsace. Many of the better-known ones begin around Barr, and continue south. These are the Zotzenberg of Mittelbergheim (which produces Sylvaner Grand Cru wine, unusual in Alsace); the Kastelberg, Wiebelsberg and Moenchberg Grands Crus of Andlau; the Muenchberg of Nothalten and the Winzenberg of Blienschwiller; Frankstein of Dambach la Ville, and the Praelatenberg of Orschwiller/Kintzheim, the southern-most Grands Crus in the entire Bas Rhin department. However, the northern area of this department has several of its own. The Grands Crus in the Bas Rhin department from Marlenheim in the north to Bergbieten in the south are: the Steinklotz of Marlenheim, Dahlenheim’s Engelberg, the Altenbergs of Wolxheim and Bergbieten, and Molsheim’s Bruderthal.

As in much of the Rhine River valley, many vineyards in this part of the appellation owe their creation and development to religious houses. Several of these northern-most Grands Crus have historical links to the cathedral in Strasbourg, which lies only about 25 kilometers (15 miles) to the east. (It is easily visible from the upper slopes in this area on a clear day.) Furthermore, vineyard names in this appellation and throughout the Rhine Valley often suggest their ecclesiastical heritage, such as two Grands Crus here: Engelberg, “Angel Mountain”, and Bruderthal, “Brother (as in monk) Valley”.

The principal varietals harvested in these northern-most Grands Crus are Riesling, Gewürztraminer and Pinot Gris.

 

What I Tasted

2014 Riesling, Grand Cru Engelberg, Appellation Alsace Grand Cru Controlee, Cave du Roi Dagobert: A dry white wine with light gold color; a floral and fruity nose, with white fruit, grapefruit and floral flavors; medium acidity.

2014 Pinot Gris, Cuvee du Millenaire, Cave du Roi Dagobert: A dry white wine with medium gold color; a fruity and floral nose, and flavors of white fruits; medium acidity.

2012 Riesling, Grand Cru Steinklotz, Appellation Alsace Grand Cru Controlee, Domaine Fritsch (Marlenheim): A dry white wine with light plus gold color; citrus and turpentine nose; flavors of citrus and honey; very, very mild acidity with a smooth, medium finish.

Cremant Brut, Domaine Fritsch Romain (Marlenheim): A dry white sparkling wine with light gold color and very fine bubbles; very slight toasty nose, hints of yeast and smoke and slight licorice; creamy mouthfeel and very mild acidity. Very light and refreshing.