Tag Archives: Hiking and Biking European Wine Country

Wine Notes: Franconia’s Mainviereck

November 11, 2023 admin

What I Learned

Baden and Wuerttemberg, formerly two different principalities, joined in 1952 to become one state in the Federal Republic of Germany. However, the Baden wine region and the Wuerttemberg wine region remain distinct. (There is no such thing as a Baden-Wuerttemberg wine region.) But in the northern-most corner of the old Baden, and west of Wuerzburg in the far western corner of Bavaria, two wine regions, the Franken and the Baden, meet to form a complex mosaic of wine districts and famous growths. The Schoppen Radweg bicycle trail took me through the vineyards of these regions from the Wertheim am Main to Marktheidenfeld, Erlenbach bei Marktheidenfeld and along the Main River to Homburg am Main.

Franconian Terroir:

The Franken region has three zones, the Steigerwald, the Maindreieck (Main Triangle), and the Mainviereck (Main Rectangle). Both the latter two lie along the Main River, but geologically they are very different terroir. Shell limestone soils predominate in the Maindreieck, and results in very different wines from wines grown in the red sandstone of the Mainviereck. The small area around Marktheidenfeld and Homburg am Main lies in between these two Franconian wine districts, and the soils reflect its position between the two. The best vineyards in this district face the Main River as it twists south yet again. The most prized vineyards are the Kallmuth by Homburg am Main, and the Lengfurter Oberrot (The rot (red) referring to the red sandstone of the Mainviereck that begins to appear here along with the shell limestone of the Maindreieck.) This small area produces both red and white wines: Pinot Noir, Pinot Blanc and Silvaner being especially popular here.

Baden Terroir:

The Baden wine district here (one of nine in the Baden wine region) forms part of the Tauberfranken district (even though it is not along the Tauber River here). The vineyards face south, along the small valley of the Aalbach, as it heads toward the Main. The Tauberfranken district produces primarily white wines, with Mueller-Thurgau leading in amount.

What I Tasted

2016 Spaetburgunder, Lengfurter Oberrot, QbA, Trocken, Weinhaus Frank: A dry red wine with medium red plus ruby red color; a nose of vanilla, blackberry and cherry; with oak, vanilla and cherry flavors; medium tannins, with a smooth finish.

2016 Silvaner, Homburger Kallmuth, QbA, Trocken, Weingut Blank: A dry white wine with medium gold color; a fruity and slightly mineral nose, with slight vanilla, nutmeg, and white peach flavors; medium plus acidity with a green apple finish.

2017 Weisser Burgunder, Homburger Kallmuth, Kabinett, Trocken, Weingut Huller: A dry white wine with dark minus yellow gold color; a fruity nose with hints of peach, gooseberry and citrus; with flavors of tangy green apple, and ripe red apple; medium minus acidity.

Biking, Germany, Nutshell

Schoppenradweg: Trail in a Nutshell

November 11, 2023 admin

Trail Name: Schoppenradweg

Trail Type: A medium distance cycling circuit; well-maintained and almost exclusively paved, marking on the trail is good.

Length:

Total – 45 kilometers/28 miles

Convenient to: Wertheim, or Wuerzburg, Germany

Marking: Schoppen (wine glass) with bike

Trail Description: An easy and pleasant circuit through a wide variety of landscapes, with lots of history, views and things to do, on bike paths that are excellently maintained and a pleasure to ride on.

Trailhead:

Official: Erlenbach Bei Marktheidenfeld

Me: Uettingen (B): Helmstadterstrasse-Hauptstrasse

Parking:

Uettingen: Am Graben x Muehlweg, a large paved parking area

Erlenbach Bei Marktheidenfeld: large paved parking lot at Wiesenweg x Hirtenweg, by the Festhalle

Marktheidenfeld: Parkplatz Mainkai, large paved parking lot just before the bridge, off Brueckenstrasse

Lengfurt: Off St2299, by the river, a large free, and paved lot

Public Transportation Options:

Bus: Buses are the only option in this area, run by the VVM (a Main region company). But they are linked with the Deutsche Bahn site for details. See https://int.bahn.de/en

Suggested Stages:

Not Applicable

Trail Itinerary-Reference Points: (Counterclockwise)

Uettingen: Hauptstrasse-Kirchbergstrasse, Birkenfelderweg, fields; Remlingen: Cross Weberleinsweg x Birkenfelderstrasse, to Birkenfelderstrasse, Zehntbergweg; Tiefenthal: Kreuzstrasse, Obere G Strasse, Wasserweg, cross Hauptstrasse to path along creek; Erlenbach: Wiesenweg, Im Bruhl, left at lone farm house to pass under Wuerzburgerstrasse, fields; Marktheidenfeld: Am Weiler, under Dillbergstrasse, along creek path, under Sudring, Lohgraben under B8 to Friedenstrasse, Kreuzbergstrasse, cross B8 to Mitteltorstrasse-Fahrgasse, to Main River trail; pass Mainuferbiergarten, pass Klaeranlage; Lengfurt: Along the river; Homburg: under ST2299, Maintalstrasse, under ST2299, along river: Bettingen: Geiselbrunnweg, Dorfstrasse-Hauptstrasse, Dertingerweg, over A3 on Almosenberg, Hymerring, pass Kletterpark; Dertingen: Sandweg, Albachstrasse/L2310, Al Mandelberg; Wuestenzell: Along the Aalbach; Holzkirchen: Bruckenstrasse, Baltasar Neumannstrasse (P), Klosterstrasse, fields, forests; Uettingen: Untere Muhle-Hollerbuschweg

Representative Trail Photos:

Restrooms:

Marktheidenfeld: Marktplatz, between the Volkshochschule and St Laurentius Church

Lengfurt/Triefenstein: downriver from the parking lot, off Sr2299. Look for a small green corrugated structure

Attractions on or near Trail:

Marktheidenfeld – the Franck-Haus is a fine building constructed in the baroque for a wealthy wine merchant. Recently renovated, the façade, baroque rooms and the old wine cellar are worth a visit. Exhibits rotate in other parts of the building as well.

Homburg – Rebsortengarten, (a grape varietal garden), a collection of vines (with labels) providing a quick reference for grape varietals grown regionally.

Tasting along the Trail:

Marktheidenfeld – Several pubs and restaurants offer local wines.

Lengfurt/Triefenstein and Erlenbach bei Marktheidenfeld both have a couple of wineries and vineyards outside the village.

Homburg am Main is the village with the most choices for wineries or wine shops, and is the site of the famous Kallmuth vineyard along the slopes overlooking the river.

Alternative Options:

Hiking: Homburger Weinwanderweg, a 10 kilometer/6 mile long trail beginning and ending in Homburg, is a fairly easy route through town, vineyards and forest, with river views along much of the way.

Additional Information:

Regional: https://www.main-spessart.de/themen/tourismus-kultur/19.Tourismus–Kultur-im-Landkreis.html

Trail specific: https://www.gemeinde-erlenbach.de/tourismusfreizeit/radwege/

Comments:

One of the biggest wine festivals of this area is the Weinfest Homburg, in Homburg/Triefenstein, every end of July to the first weekend in August, in the old castle courtyard.

From Bettingen to Uettingen, the Schoppen Radweg itinerary is the same as the Romantische Strasse bicycle itinerary. After Uettingen the 498.25 kilometer itinerary continues about another 15 kilometers (a bit less than 10 miles) to Wuerzburg, the northern terminus of the Romantische Strasse, for both cars and bicycles.

Note that both Lengfurt and Homburg am Main are part of the Triefenstein community. Therefore, tourist information about this part of the trail may be found under https://tourismus-triefenstein.de/

France, Hiking

A New Castle Makes New Wine From Old

October 12, 2023 admin

In the early 14^th century, a Pope decided to make a new residence (his Chateauneuf, or New Castle) in the countryside a few miles north of Avignon. The intent was to use this as a summer residence, away from the noise and heat of Avignon. Vines have been in this area, around what is now the village of Chateauneuf du Pape, for at least a couple of millennia. The wine it produced, though, was not particularly good. But with papal money and interest, the wine improved greatly over time. Nowadays, Chateauneuf du Pape wine is one of the most iconic wines of the world.

So, with great enthusiasm, I headed to the village to hike an easy trail through its vineyards, try its wines, and see its “New Castle”.

To be honest – the vineyards make the trip worthwhile here. They surround the village completely. This trail passed through the vineyards to the east of the village. My first surprise was seeing the galets. I had heard of them, of course. These stones both help keep weeds down, and help retain the sun’s heat (from day into night). But seeing them on the ground, and appreciating their size and texture, was another thing altogether. In one place, they were several deep on the ground, looking like so many harvested Russet potatoes, still lying in the field. (Caution: It makes for slow(er) walking.) Later, I came to a cut in a bank, and the layers were visible in the soil for at least a couple of feet!

Another thing to notice along this trail, is the number of different vine pruning/training techniques. Usually you will see one, maybe two, types of pruning. But here, they even had the Gobelet (vines shaped like a goblet), in addition to the Guyot and the Cordon de Royat. This and other interesting tidbits of information about the terroir and the viticultural practices here may be found on education boards all along the trail. (While the trail’s boards are only in French, a brochure from the tourism office (https://en.chateauneuf.com/le-sentier-viticole) provides explanations for each board in French and English.)

Finally, I noticed that this was an undulating land – more than I had expected or realized at first. With each rise and fall of a slope, around each turn of a vineyard or hedge row, I had a different long distance view. Sometimes Chateauneuf du Pape would disappear from view completely. Other times, I found myself facing the white slopes of Mount Ventoux. Cresting another slope, my old haunts the Alpilles, by Vacqueyras and Gigondas, magically appeared. Yet, I never saw the Rhone River, although the village lies not too far from it.

After I passed through the section of vineyards known as the Crau (which means stone in Provencal – per the board), I followed the trail through a wooded section. It provides the only shade for hikers on this itinerary, and is welcome, as it immediately precedes the final section of the trail, a walk along the road back to the starting point on the outskirts of the village

To return to the car, I had to walk back through the village. For such a famous wine, the village was fairly small, (and the tourism infrastructure even smaller). Its castle is a mere ruin, albeit a highly photographed one. Nonetheless, it was exciting to visit the place that may be called the birthplace of the Appellation d’Origine Controlee system, and home to former Popes and famous vineyards. Then, of course, there is the wine – in so many wineries, so many shops – to explore!

France, Wines

Wine Notes: Chateauneuf du Pape

October 11, 2023 admin

What I Learned

Located in the Southern Rhone wine region of France, Chateauneuf du Pape is one of the world’s most iconic French wines. It has historically been one of France’s most exclusive wines. Since the days of the Popes at Avignon, this wine over time improved, until it became one of the most sought after wines in Europe. Nearby, and even not so near-by wine-makers began to capitalize on its fame, and labelled their own wines “Chateauneuf du Pape.” Indignant Chateauneuf du Pape villagers lobbied the national assembly to pass a law, thus inspiring the Appellation d’Origine Controlee system.

The wines themselves (both red and white) are blends. Traditionally, up to thirteen grapes (both red and white) may be used in the red blend, although most wine-makers rely on fewer than that, and most use at least some Grenache. Other red grape varietals often include another Rhone Valley favorite Syrah, and Southern Rhone stand-ins Mourvedre and Cinsault.

White Chateauneuf du Pape wines are more difficult to find because less than ten percent of the total Chateauneuf du Pape wine production is white wine. No red varietals are allowed in the white wines, leaving the winemakers only six varietals, among them the Grenache Blanc, the Southern Rhone valley perennials Roussanne, Bourboulenc, Clairette and Picpoul.

Chateauneuf du Pape vineyards are also famous for their galets. Rounded stones brought down by the Rhone over eons, they cover the vineyards in many places. Imagine stones akin to Russet potatoes strewn throughout the vineyards! They serve the practical function of reducing weeds, and catching the heat of the sun by day, releasing it at night.

What I Tasted

2015 Le P’tit Plaisir, Vin de France, Domaine Eddie Feraud: A dry white wine cuvee (Grenache, Clairette, Muscat) with medium minus gold color, spice, wood and slight floral nose, with vanilla, floral and slight wood flavors, medium acidity, smooth overall.

2015 Chateauneuf du Pape Blanc, Appellation Chateauneuf du Pape Controlee, Domaine Andre Mathieu: A dry white wine with a medium yellow gold color; mineral and floral nose, along with vanilla and toasted nuts flavors; medium acidity, with a very suave mouth feel and very smooth finish.

2014 Chateauneuf du Pape Rouge, Appellation Chateauneuf du Pape Controlee, Domaine Andre Mathieu: A very dry red wine with dark minus garnet color; tobacco and red cherry nose with herbal and spicy notes, slight leather and cherry flavors, with notes of smoke, and cedar; medium tannins, very dry, with a smooth finish ending on a wisp of smoke.

2013 Chateauneuf du Pape Rouge, Tradition, Appellation Chateauneuf du Pape Controlee, Chateau de la Gardine: A dry red wine with dark garnet color; nose of spice, smoke, stewed plums, with flavors of leather, smoke, stewed red fruits; medium plus tannins, long finish.

2012 Chateauneuf du Pape Rouge, Appellation Chateauneuf du Pape Controlee, Chateau Mont-Redon: A dry red wine with dark garnet color; nose of leather and spice, blackberry, vanilla and oak flavors; medium tannins with a smooth finish.

France, Hiking, Nutshell

Escapade au Coeur du Vignoble: Trail in a Nutshell

October 11, 2023 admin

Trail Name: Escapade au Coeur du Vignoble de Chateauneuf du Pape

Trail Type: an easy short distance circuit; well-maintained and almost about half paved, and half rough, trail surface; marking on the trail is ok, but take a map.

Length:

Total – 7.5 kilometers/4.6 miles

Convenient to:

Avignon or Orange, France

Marking:

Small maroon colored square with the Chateauneuf coat of arms (occasionally), and (15) education boards

Sample of wine education board Along the Trail

Trail Description:

A pleasant, but mostly unshaded, itinerary through parts of the famous vineyard area of Chateauneuf du Pape, providing great views, tips on local viticultural practices, and fun for the whole family (providing you wear sturdy footwear!).

Trailhead:

Chateauneuf du Pape: Avenue Louis Pasteur

Parking:

In the center of the village, not much, but there is more

Public Transportation Options:

Rail: None, but the closest stations are in Orange, Courthezon or Sorgues, all on the Orange to Avignon line. Check https://www.sncf.com/fr

Bus: Buses on the Route Orange-Sorgues, on Line 922

Suggested Stages:

Not applicable

Trail Itinerary-Reference Points:

Chateauneuf du Pape: Avenue Louis Pasteur-Chemin de la Font du Pape, to the first educative panel, through vineyards to Chemin de la Coste Froide, Chemin de la Montalivet (a narrow track), Chemin de la Nerthe, (turning onto a narrow track called Chemin Draille de la Crau, circling the vineyards of Charbonnieres Est, stair-stepping back west to Chemin de Charbonnieres, onto Route de Courthezon, then right onto a track to rejoin the original trail passing along a small wood, vineyards, then through woods back onto Chemin de la Montalivet; left onto Route de Courthezon/D92, following it back into the village

Representative Trail Photos:

Restrooms:

None observed

Attractions on or near Trail:

Chateauneuf du Pape, Avenue Saint-Pierre de Luxembourg: Musee du Vin Brotte, offers audio-guided tours, and a wine tasting.

Tasting along the Trail:

Both in the village and along the trail there are plenty of wineries to choose from!

Alternative Options:

Hiking: Chateauneuf du Pape and its Environments is a 10.8 km circuit route that has more elevation, and covers a wider variety of scenery, from village to river, as well as through vineyards. See https://www.visorando.com/randonnee-chateauneuf-du-pape-et-son-environnement/

Biking: From the Antique Stones of Orange, to the Galets (River Stones) of Chateauneuf du Pape, a challenging 35 kilometer circuit, beginning in Orange, famous for its Roman theater and other ruins, to Chateauneuf du Pape, some of which follows the well-known Via Rhona bike trail (from Lyon). See https://www.provence-cycling.co.uk/equipment/orange/cycle-route-from-the-stone-to-the-pebbly-terroir/provence-713016-2.html

Additional Information:

Regional: https://www.france-voyage.com/cities-towns/chateauneuf-du-pape-33685/tourist-office-chateauneuf-pape-7166.htm ; and more specifically for this area https://www.poptourisme.fr/

Trail specific: https://www.outdooractive.com/en/route/hiking-route/france/sentier-viticole-chateauneuf-du-pape/266646253/

Comments:

This route leads past 15 numbered education boards about vineyards and winemaking, in order.

The trail is designed with short-cuts (shorter versions), or an extension (longer version) (at or near sign 10, ) to the Charbonnieres Est and the Crau vineyard areas, which adds about 2 km, (1.25 miles) to make it about 7.5 kilometers in total.

Germany, Hiking

Communing with Vines

September 12, 2023 admin

This hike can be defined as slow hiking. According to the Cambridge Dictionary, slow hiking is the act of going on a long walk through countryside, without the pressure of going fast, or climbing hills, or making a distance. It is meant to be an activity accessible to all fitness levels, that predisposes participants for actually enjoying nature. Thus, it sets up a framework for communing with nature.

The Steigerwald area I hiked is ideal for slow tourism, defined as far from mass tourism sites, with a focus on local culture, history and traditions. It is characterized by low (and slow) mobility, emphasizing sustainability. The Steigerwald wine district is surely Franconia’s least known district. Iphofen (see here), and Bad Windsheim (see here), are the two biggest towns – delightful, but small. Agricultural pursuits, mostly devoted to vines and grains, cover much of the rest of the area. Thus, I could slow hike in a slow tourism area, and take time to reflect on vines and communities supporting them.

Small Section of the Steigerwald Nature Park

Mainly though, this area is known for the Steigerwald Nature Park, which covers about 431 square miles, in the Franconian/Bavarian border area west of Nuremberg. The hills are heavily forested and popular with some hikers for their unspoiled nature. My hike though, on the southwest corner of the park, lay right at the junction of the trees and vines. Not only could I enjoy both vineyards and forest, I could do so in peace and quiet.

And then There Were None: Clear Vine/Tree Delineation

I began just below the Weinparadiesscheune, a popular wine-bar with local wine (and food) on offer. Early morning patrons, on that warm, sunny late August day, began to fill up the outdoor seats. This part of the hike remained on asphalt as it went up the western side of the hill, along the upper reaches of vines facing the villages of Bullenheim, Seinsheim and Huettenheim.

Weinparadiesscheune – Set Between Forest and Vineyard

Vintners from these small villages work the vines on the short, but steep, slopes, producing Silvaner, Mueller-Thurgau and Bacchus wine, named after the Greco-Roman god of wine. The Bacchus varietal is relatively new, but it has taken hold in this region (one of the few places it may be found). Like the god, Bacchus wine is popular, and inspires (when taken in moderation, of course!)

After a steep climb off the asphalt and into the woods, I was onto the Tannenberg (Pine Mountain), nowadays mostly devoid of trees and covered in vines instead. On the north side of this hill overlooking Huettenheim, there is a Jewish cemetery. In a quiet spot, well suited for contemplation, reminiscent of two similar cemeteries in remote areas of Baden I’d seen, recalling that once vibrant Jewish communities coexisted within even remote villages.

After that, the trail ran south along a shallow valley separating it from the main Steigerwald park. Once leaving the Tannenberg hill, the trail entered woodlands again. As the modest incline increased so did the heat, but fortunately now, the meandering trail was shaded by majestic trees.

It was in this same forest, according to legend, that Empress Kunigunde, lost her way. She made an oath to God that she would found a church there, if she could find her way out of the woods. Sure enough, right off the trail lay the ruins of Kunigunde’s church. (The only problematic issue being the fact that the ruins date to about 400 years after her death in 1033.) Nonetheless, they provide a nice opportunity to relax, soak up the atmosphere of an earlier era, and enjoy the birdsong.

After my contemplations on a Greco-Roman god, a Catholic church, and a former Jewish community, I realized that like the Greco-Roman communities of old, and the Jewish and Catholic communities, all shared an appreciation of wine that transcended their differences. Such is often the way with wine aficionados as well. Completing the circuit, I made my way back to the Weinparadiesscheune, to enjoy a glass or two of the local wine, made right here, in full communion with nature and fellow wine-lovers, as has been done for centuries.

Germany, Wines

Wine Notes: Seinsheim Bullenheim

September 11, 2023 admin

What I Learned

Of the Franconia (Franken) wine region’s districts, the Steigerwald district is undoubtedly less well-known than the other two (the Maindreieck around Wuerzburg, and the Mainviereck), and consequently, one of the least visited. The Steigerwald is a tranquil area, focused largely on agriculture. One major attraction is the relatively large Steigerwald Nature park, with wide swathes of tree-covered hills. But on the edges of those hills are vineyards. The vineyard area is known as Frankenberger Schlossstueck, with three vineyards – the Hohenbuehl, the Tannenberg, and the Paradies, belonging to the villages of Seinsheim, Huettenheim and Bullenheim respectively.

Mueller-Thurgau, Silvaner and Bacchus are the three most common grape varieties planted here. The Bacchus varietal was created by crossing a Riesling with a Silvaner, then with a Mueller-Thurgau. The three parent varietals all do relatively well in cooler climate, which is why these, along with Bacchus, are the most planted varietals in this district. These grapes tend to produce light, fruity, white wines, a delight to drink chilled. Normally neither as acidic, nor as aromatic as Riesling, both the Silvaner and Bacchus wines are less-intense alternatives to Riesling, and are found almost only in Franconia.

What I Tasted

2017 Mueller-Thurgau, Kabinett, Trocken, Paradies Wein: A dry white wine with medium minus gold color; nose of green apple and gooseberry, with vanilla, green apple, and slight stone fruit flavors; medium plus acidity, with a tart lengthy finish.

2017 Bacchus, Kabinett, Halbtrocken, Winzerhof Klaus Markert (Weigenheim): A semi-dry white wine, with medium gold color; apricot, white peach and vanilla aromas and flavors; medium acidity.

2016 Bacchus, Bullenheimer Paradies, Kabinett, Halbtrocken, Weinbau Erich Schwemmer (Seinsheim): A semi-dry white wine, with medium minus gold color; neutral nose, with apricot, white peach and vanilla flavors; medium minus acidity.

Germany, Hiking, Nutshell

Traumrunde Huettenheim-Seinsheim: Trail in a Nutshell

September 11, 2023 admin

Trail Name: Traumrunde Huettenheim-Seinsheim

Trail Type:

Short-distance circuit; well-maintained and almost exclusively paved or hard-packed, marking on the trail fairly good

Length:

Total – 8.7 kilometers/ 5.4 miles

Convenient to:

Ippesheim, Franconia, Germany

Marking:

Square with white background, and red lettering reading “Traumrunde Huettenheim-Seinsheim”

Trail Description:

A meandering circuit, with moderate ascents and descents, as it circles the irregular upper contours of a vine-planted hill on the southwestern edge of the large Steigerwald Nature Park

Trailhead:

Can be anywhere on a circuit, but from a parking perspective, the parking area just below the Weinparadies Scheune is a convenient place to start.

Parking:

Bullenheim: Follow the signs to the Weinparadiesscheune, and before arriving, you will see a small area for hikers’ parking

Public Transportation Options:

Bus: Available to surrounding villages (Bullenheim, Seinsheim, Huettenheim), but not practical

Suggested Stages: (Not applicable)

Trail Itinerary-Reference Points: (Clockwise)

Huettenheim: Jewish Cemetery, Vineyards, two little ponds, forest; Kapellberg overlook, Kunigundenkapelle, scenic overlook, parking lot, Weinparadiesscheune Seinsheim; Steinbruch am Kunigundenwald, picnic area, Tannenberg Kreuz, Wanderhuette am Juedischen Friedhof

Representative Trail Photos:

Representative Trail Section in Forest Areas

Restrooms:

(Only observed at the WeinparadiesScheune)

Attractions on or near Trail:

Some wine education tables located intermittently along the trail.

Tasting along the Trail:

Weinparadiesscheune Seinsheim, directly on the trail

Small wineries and taverns in Bullenheim, Seinsheim and Huettenheim, all slightly off the trail

Alternative Options:

Hiking: TCW 49: Durch Fraenkische Weinparadies: a 12.9 kilometer circuit, through much of the same area, but, more challenging ascents and descents, and about 2 miles longer. See https://www.outdooractive.com/de/route/wanderung/steigerwald/tcw-49-durchs-fraenkische-weinparadies/227470702/

Additional Information:

Regional: https://www.ippesheim.de/

Trail specific: https://www.outdooractive.com/de/route/wanderung/fraenkisches-weinland/traumrunde-huettenheim-seinsheim/9552201/#dm=1

Comments:

Few parking lots, per se, just parking on the edges of lanes. So please be conscientious and respectful when parking road-side in the villages or vineyards.

Biking, France

Through Crus and Clos

August 12, 2023 admin

Passing through vineyards in the Haut- Rhin department in Alsace is always delightful, especially when passing through some Grands Crus vineyards. This trail also ran by, not through, other vineyards known as clos. By definition, clos are vineyards enclosed by walls. They are special places, like the Grands Crus, each with a special pedigree, producing sought-after wines.

This circuit trail began in Rouffach, a town I had never visited. I would visit the compact historical center after my ride, tucked away from the modern main roads (D18Bis), wishing I had more time to spend there! Then again, time there would have meant taking time from some of the other equally delightful towns and villages (Hattstatt, Obermorschwihr, Eguisheim, Voegtlinshoffen, Gueberschwihr and Pfaffenheim) along the route.

But this circuit was also about the well-respected vineyards in this sector of the Alsace wine region. No sooner through the built-up area of Rouffach, Clos de St Landelin comes into view. Like many clos or Grands Crus, this one also spelled out its name in large letters, another mark of distinction for these special vineyards. Named after an itinerant Irish monk, Clos de St Landelin lies within the Grand Cru of Vorbourg, overlooking Rouffach. I would see this combination of Grand Cru and Clos again, further north, where the Goldert Grand Cru has the Clos de St Imer within it.

The reason for this is simple. Merovingian kings allotted early monks large territories in pagan areas to encourage conversion, as well as to grow vines (for communion wine). Both vines and conversion went from strength to strength, and soon Alsace was known for both. The circuit took me past both the former Abbey of Marbach, (over 1000 years old), and the nearby Hatschbourg Grand Cru. We have the monks to thank for the rebirth of wine -making in Alsace, and their descendants for doing such a great job of it.

But the height of this match-up came in Eguisheim, at the end of the early Middle Ages. This village which still retains its medieval look, saw a local man, Bruno von Egisheim-Dagsburg, become Pope Leo IX. As son of a nobleman, I wondered, if as a child, he lived in one of the three castles high above the town. (To hike there, see the Nutshell here.) Neither the palace in the center of the village, nor the Chapel of St Leo IX, dates to his era. Nonetheless, the narrow, twisted alleyways, and colorful half-timbered cottages make this a very photogenic village to visit. (Conveniently, Eguisheim marks roughly the half-way point on the circuit, and is the site of a Wolfberger wine cellar – and I love their Cremant!)

Leaving Eguisheim, up a short but rather steep path (maybe too much Cremant?), I found myself in the middle of the Eichberg Grand Cru. Monks owned this one too, at one point. Shortly after, I was cycling through the Hatschbourg then the Goldert Grands Crus, cruising into Gueberschwihr in no time. This attractive village is home to the Ernest Burn winery. The current owner, whose family’s wine-making tradition dates to 1620, showed me around, and offered more tastes of his Grand Cru Goldert and Clos St Imer wines than I was good for me, at that point. But they were distinctively perfumed and lovely to taste.

Fortunately, to return to Rouffach, there were only about five kilometers (3.25 miles) to go. With the beautiful weather and views, and having combined the best of both the cultural and viticultural worlds, I found this a really enjoyable, and quite memorable, half-day ride that I was sorry to finish.

France, Wines

Wine Notes: Haut Rhin Grands Crus

August 11, 2023 admin

What I Learned:

Vorbourg, Hatschbourg, Goldert, Eichberg, Pfersigberg, and Zinnkoepfle are the special vineyard areas in the zone called the Champ de Fractures de Rouffach-Guebwiller, where millions of years ago, the land collapsed. This zone of the Alsace wine region is particularly known for its Grands Crus. The wines from Grands Crus are generally considered superior to non-Grand Cru wines because the terroir where they lie is considered particularly favorable for growing vines. Clos de St Landelin, Clos de St Imer lie within the Grand Cru Vorbourg and Goldert, respectively. The fact that these sub-sections of vineyards were enclosed indicates that grapes matured here especially well, and were tempting targets for thieves! Due to the particular nature of conditions here, certain grape varieties do very well in this zone. About 50 percent of the wines from these vineyards are Gewuerztraminer, followed by Riesling and Pinot Gris.

The Clos de St Landelin is a monopole (owned by one owner, in this case the Mure family), and sadly, I didn’t taste any of their wines. But I did taste a range of Ernest Burn winery’s Clos St Imer/Grand Cru Goldert wines. Burn offers wines with low acidity. They achieve this by delaying picking as long as possible (without becoming a vendage tardive, or late harvest, wine), then keeping one year in stainless steel tanks, followed by two years in wood barrels (not barriques). Due to this process, most Burn wines are older when first available for public sale (or tasting). It was a unique and delicious tasting experience, especially for the Riesling and Pinot Gris wines!

What I Tasted:

2012 Riesling, Alsace Grand Cru Eichberg, Appellation Alsace Grand Cru Controlee, Domaine Gruss (Eguisheim): A dry white wine with a dark light gold color; a nose with some vanilla and spice; notes of citrus, peach, and toast; medium acidity, well-balanced overall.

2012 Pinot Gris, Grand Cru Eichberg, Leon Baur (Eguisheim): A dry white wine with medium gold color, scent of fresh grass, with hints of honey and a trace of vanilla and spice; mild acidity

2010 Gewuerztraminer, Clos Saint Imer, Appellation Alsace Grand Cru Goldert Controlee, Domaine Ernest Burn (Gueberschwihr): An off-dry white wine, with medium gold color; an explosion of roses on the nose, and with rich exotic fruits, (lychee, ripe pineapple), spices, to include vanilla, flavors; very mild acidity, with a medium length finish.

2009 Riesling, Clos Saint Imer, Appellation Alsace Grand Cru Goldert Controlee, Domaine Ernest Burn: An off-dry white wine with light-plus gold color; turpentine nose, with rich fruity red apple and pear flavors; very, very mild acidity.

2009 Riesling, Clos Saint Imer, La Chapelle, Appellation Alsace Grand Cru Goldert Controlee, Domaine Ernest Burn: A dry white wine with medium minus gold color; nose of spice, and slight turpentine, flavors of peach, apricots, vanilla and a hint of floral; mild acidity.

2009 Pinot Gris, Clos Saint Imer, Appellation Alsace Grand Cru Goldert Controlee, Domaine Ernest Burn: An off-dry white wine, light gold in color with a slight trace of pink; ripe, white stone fruits nose; ripe peach, ripe melon and honey flavors; low acidity.

2009 Pinot Gris, La Chapelle, Goldert, Clos Saint Imer, Appellation Alsace Grand Cru Controlee, Domaine Ernest Burn: A dry white wine with dark gold color; exotic fruits nose, flavors of honey, ripe apricot, ripe honeydew melon, pineapple; mild acidity.

2007 Riesling, Clos Saint Imer, Appellation Alsace Grand Cru Goldert Controlee, Domaine Ernest Burn: An off-dry white wine with gold color; medium-plus gold color; turpentine nose, with rich fruity flavors and a trace of minerality; very, very mild acidity.

2007 Pinot Gris, Clos Saint Imer, Appellation Alsace Grand Cru Goldert Controlee, Domaine Ernest Burn: An off-dry white wine, light pink-gold in color; ripe, white stone fruits nose; ripe peach, ripe melon and honey flavors; low acidity.