Amboise is a delightful town in the Loire River valley. It is also the center of one of the smallest appellations in the area, the Appellation Touraine Amboise Controlee. I finally had a chance to visit!
Amboise has a low-key, country town atmosphere. But there is nothing small about its attractions, which include a magnificent royal chateau, perched high above the river, a compact historical center, and the Clos de Luce, the final home of Leonardo Da Vinci. It is especially photogenic, set as it is along the impressively broad Loire, and against the backdrop of low green hills. Finally, there are the wines, notably the chilled Roses, especially appealing on warm summer days.
Visiting the tourist office in Amboise, the helpful staff provided several hiking suggestions and maps. The hike I ultimately decided on began in a village just 10 kilometers (6 miles) from Amboise. It was a gentle hike, rather short, and mercifully often in the shade. (Within an hour of completing the hike, temperatures reached 95 degrees Fahrenheit/35 degrees Celsius, and the sun was ever shining: Great for the grapes, not so good for me.)
To reach the trailhead from Amboise, I had to head north, crossing a half-kilometer stretch over the Loire River, onto the right bank, to arrive at the village of Saint Ouen-les-Vignes. This small village sets in the narrow valley of the Ramberge stream. The streets were still as I walked through them in the early morning. France can be a study in contrasts: quick, lively people, and quiet, low-key villages. That was Saint Ouen. At the edge of the village, turning into the woods, the Ramberge broke the stillness as it tumbled downhill on its way to the Loire.
Once through the woods, atop the plateau above the village, there were a couple of hamlets: La Maillaudiere, La Piniere and Le Vigneau. Even quieter than Saint Ouen center, they stood as lonely sentinels, bounded by fields, pastures and woods. Allegedly, the ruins of a Roman fort exist somewhere on the plateau, but the dense summer vegetation precluded any hopes of seeing traces of them anyway.
As I reached the hamlet of La Fontenelle, the trail meandered along vineyards and fields of wheat. The trail turned south, heading back to Saint Ouen along a quiet country road bordered by old trees. Passing a once elegant house, I soon returned to “civilization”, although the village was no more lively this time than before.
Approaching the trailhead, I found myself at the entrance to a tranquil park: An inviting oasis surrounded by trees, on the banks of the Ramberge. A couple of foot bridges served to transport people onto this green space, suitably equipped with picnic tables. It was a lovely spot for an early picnic, and the quiet which had seemed almost eerie, now seemed serene!
