Wines Notes: Franconian Steigerwald

 

What I Learned:

Kronsberg, Julius Echter Berg, and the Kuchenmeister are three well-known vineyards in the Iphofen-Roedelsee area, the most famous perhaps being the Julius Echter Berg, named after a 16th Century Wuerzburg Prince-Bishop. (He served as the ruler of a large area within the Holy Roman Empire in Franconia, which he managed rather well.) It was during his lifetime that the Silvaner vines entered Franconia (the first documented record of it locally being in the Castell archives), and some of its best expressions come from the mineral-rich Gipskeuper soils (components shale, gypsum, anhydrite and rock salt) unique to the area around the Schwanberg, around which the three vineyards lay. This geological component, along with the influence of a continental weather pattern, can result in outstanding white wines some years.

Silvaner is one of the more important white varietals in this area. Many locals prefer Silvaner wines over Riesling wines. Due to the unique geological soil mix in this area, Silvaner wines from around the Schwanberg can be particularly interesting.

But Scheurebe is especially famed in the Steigerwald area. This hybrid is also known as Saemling 88 (literally, Seedling 88). The name Scheurebe itself comes from the name of its breeder, the early 20th century viticulturalist Dr. Scheu; and the German word for grape: Rebe. One of its parents is Riesling, but the other is uncertain. These vines are not only resistant to frost, but also tend to ripen early: two important considerations for vintners in this area. They also tend to have high sugars. Wines from fully ripened Scheurebe from this varietal find particular favor and renown in this area because if vinified at a high-quality level (Praedikat or above), they will be slightly sweet-tasting, with flavors of honey and blood orange or red grapefruit, yet powerful. An intriguing and unique wine to savor and remember.

 

What I Tasted:

2016 Silvaner Iphofer Kronsberg, Kabinett, Trocken, Weingut Zehntkeller (Iphofen): A dry white wine with light gold color; peach, pear and wood nose, with peach pear and wood flavors; tart finish with medium plus acidity.

2015 Sylvaner, Qualitaetswein, Trocken, Zehntkeller (Iphofen): A dry white wine with medium minus gold color; slightly fruity and mineral nose, with vanilla, floral and slight green wood flavors; medium acidity.

2015 Scheurebe, Iphoefer Kronsberg, Kabinett, Trocken, Weingut Emmerich (Iphofen): A dry white wine with light gold color; peach nose, with peach, citrus and spice flavors; tart finish with medium plus acidity.

2015 Silvaner, Roedelseer Kuchenmeister, QbA, Trocken, Weingut Karl Meyer: A dry white wine with lemon-lime color; mineral and citrus nose, with citrus, vanilla and floral flavors; medium plus acidity.

2014 Silvaner, Iphoefer Julius Echter Berg, Trocken, VDP, Deutsche Qualitaetswein, Weingut Hans Wirsching: A dry white wine with light gold color; a floral and tropical fruit nose, with mineral, floral and green apple flavors; medium acidity.