What I Learned

Alsace’s wine producing region identifies certain vineyard areas as Grand Cru.  The Haut-Rhin (Upper Rhine department) area is particularly favored with some great terroirs. Spread roughly north to south, many of the most well-known crus are in the northern and central parts of this department. However, around the area of Guebwiller, there are several, and this post focuses on three.

The Pfingstberg, located around the village of Orschwihr, is the northernmost. At 28.15 hectares, it is also the largest. The soil composition changes with elevation, with Riesling doing particularly well higher up the slopes, and Pinot Gris and Gewuerztraminer dominating quality production on the lower slopes.

The Spiegel, located just outside Bergholtz, is on a section of slope that is not terribly steep. The Pinot Gris varietal grows well here. Above it, on steeper terrain is the Grand Cru Kessler. This name literally means “cauldron”. The geography here combines to produce a terroir sheltered from excessive winds, cold, or ambient humidity. Its altitude often serves to keep early morning fogs from reaching the vines. The steep, east-facing slopes are covered with old terraces, supported by old stone walls, and vines are planted facing east, to maximize exposure to sunlight. The natural “cauldron,” helps to protect Kessler vines from harsh winds.

In these three Grands Crus, as elsewhere in Alsace, the harvests are primarily white varietals. The Kessler, Spiegel and Pfingstberg are particularly known for their Rieslings, Pinot Gris and Gewuerztraminer; and to a lesser extent, Muscat.

 

What I Tasted

2013 Gewuerztraminer, Appellation Alsace Grand Cru Pfingstberg Controlee, Francois Schmitt (Orschwihr): A dry white wine with medium-light gold color; floral, lychee and spicy bouquet; floral, clove and lychee flavors; very, very mild acidity

2013 Riesling, Appellation Alsace Grand Cru Pfingstberg Controlee, Francois Schmitt (Orschwihr): A dry white wine with light gold color; green apple and turpentine nose, with green apple, and mineral flavors; rather tart on the finish, medium acidity.

2013 Riesling, Bollenberg, AOC Alsace, Materne Haegelin (Orschwihr): A dry white wine with a medium-light gold color; slight citrus nose, with citrus and slight spice flavors; medium-low acidity.

Cremant d’Alsace, Rose, Brut, Appellation d’Origine Controlee Cremant d’Alsace, Lucien Albrecht (Orschwihr): A dry rose sparkling wine (100% Pinot Noir), with light salmon color and fine, lively, swirling bubbles; slight floral nose and pronounced strawberry and raspberry flavors, creamy mouthfeel with very mild tannins.