Wine Notes: Baden/Ortenau

 

What I Learned

Within Baden’s Ortenau wine district, there are several distinct wine areas. One of these is known as Rebland  (literally, grape-land), located just south of the famous spa town of Baden-Baden, and north of Buhlertal. The steep hills offer a nice western and sometimes southerly exposure. These hills, which protect the grape-bearing slopes from too much wind, and the relatively mild and sunny climate, make this one of the best areas for growing grapes in Germany.

Some of these steep slopes now support vines. A couple of the more famous ones include the Mauerberg and Stich den Buben. As the name implies, the Mauerberg is heavily terraced (Mauer (wall) and Berg (hill, mountain). Tucked into a small depression on the western end of the Mauerberg is the Goldenes Loch, the golden hole or depression. From both these parcels come great wines. The Stich den Buben named parcel gained its name in 1474, when a nobleman gave a section of his vineyards to his chef, Hans Stichdenbuben. This parcel still produces wines, some of the best of the area.

Riesling,, with a unique local moniker – Klingelberger, is this area’s most esteemed white varietal. The Ortenau grows more Riesling proportionally, than any other wine area within the Baden wine region. Rulaender, known as Grauburgunder (Pinot Gris) in wider circles, and Mueller Thurgau round out the list of well-known and fairly widely-planted white varietals here.

 

What I Tasted

2015 Riesling, Mauerberg; VDP Erste Lage, Trocken, Qualitaetswein, Weingut Schloss Neuweier (Neuweier): A dry white wine with light gold color; a mineral and grapefruit nose, with flavors of grapefruit and savory spice; medium acidity, with a smooth finish.

2015 Riesling, Goldenes Loch; VDP Grosse Lage, Trocken, Qualitaetswein, Weingut Schloss Neuweier (Neuweier): A dry white wine with light gold color; a mineral and savory spice nose, with flavors of green apple and slight spice; mild acidity, with a medium-length finish.

2015 Riesling, Schlossberg; VDP Erste Lage, Trocken, Qualitaetswein, Weingut Schloss Neuweier (Neuweier): A dry white wine with light gold color; a mineral, but otherwise neutral, nose, with flavors of citrus and savory spice; mild acidity.

2014 Klingelberger (Riesling); Trocken, Qualitaetswein; Gut Naegelsfoerst (Varnhalt): A dry white wine with medium gold color; nose mild vanilla and floral; vanilla with apricot flavors; slight spicy afternotes on the tongue; high acidity.

2014 Grauburgunder, Yburg, Trocken, Qba, Winzerhaus Stich den Buben (Steinbach): A dry white wine with medium gold color, a sharp citrus nose; flavors of citrus, peach and honey; a low medium acidity and a surprisingly long finish.