In the southern Champagne region, there is a village, composed of three hamlets: Ricey-Bas, Ricey Haut, and Ricey Haute Rive, collectively known as Les Riceys. There are three trails hikers may choose from that meander in and around the village. These three hamlets, and three trails, provide visitors an opportunity to experience rural, agricultural France, in one of the largest (most extensive) vineyard sites in Champagne.
From the starting point in a parking lot, I was struck by the almost 360-degree view of the rather rocky hills of this area. In fact, piles of rock appeared everywhere along the trail, and they were not of just the cadoles. This trail focuses on the vineyard areas and the cadoles, centuries-old, round, dry stone wall huts found nearby. These were formerly used by vintners for storage and as respite from the weather.
Like the piles of stone I saw, the cadoles are made mostly from limestone, one of the key components of Champagne terroir. From my first pile of limestone, I traversed downhill, through the vineyards growing vines of Pinot Noir Pinot Meunier and Chardonnay – the trifecta of grapes from which most Champagnes are made.
It wasn’t until close to the end of the valley, that the first cadole appeared, without my seeing it. These are small structures, often overgrown with, or obscured by, vegetation. Although the vegetation helps create a certain atmosphere and nice photo ops, it doesn’t help keep them in optimal condition. Fortunately, local people and groups have begun a campaign of restoring them, and obtaining recognition for them as heritage sites.
The next cadole, darkly covered by thick moss, was in a sun-dappled, green glade. I was glad for the shade, at that point. The trail meandered over some of the fallen stones, and around the cadole, continuing through the woods for a pleasant interlude in shade.
Whether the woods have encroached on the vines, or the cadoles were placed in the woods, I could not say. But it wasn’t until the last one I saw, that the trail returned to vineyards. The return half of the trail was on the south side of the ridgeline. Beyond the vineyards, the vast expanse of the Communal Forest of Molesmes appears. Seemingly a wilderness of wildness it is bound by the Seine River on the east, which connects it to Paris. Demonstrating that while only about 110 miles from Paris as the crow flies, Les Riceys could not offer a more different experience for visitors to France.
From the trailhead, I headed into the hamlet of Ricey Haut. The three Les Riceys hamlets have one more winning combination of three: Les Riceys and its vineyards are home to three French wine appellations. Of course, the Champagne Appellation is here. Then there is the Rose des Riceys Appellation, and the Coteaux Champenois. Any one of the three hamlets offer hikers a chance to sample the three AOC wines. Just like the trails and the hamlets, tasting the wines of three appellations present visitors a wide variety of options that should not be missed by sporting wine enthusiasts.