Kappelrodeck’s witch is a good one, IMHO. She brings happiness and casts an enchanting spell over the little town and its surroundings. Her spell succeeds in charming and beguiling all who make their way through the relatively narrow pass climbing along the Acher valley at the foot of the Black Forest Mountain range.
Certainly, the landscape bewitches with its fascinating geology and natural beauty! Hills mound about like lumps on the landscape. Most of their slopes contain vines. These face the sun at different times of the day. The sun, along with the rain (and snow in the winter), make these incredibly green. The tops of the hills are often covered with pines: Tall, dark and majestic. Behind them the Black Forest begins.
These were the hills I came to hike. The town laid out a hiking itinerary through the vineyards and town called Through the Vineyards. It is a pleasant easy itinerary to cover in a couple of hours, and showcases some of the highlights of the area.
I began at the marketplace, and as I passed the witch atop the fountain, I wished for the best weatherwise. Amazingly, while the snow fell all around, none of it was accumulating in Kappelrodeck. (The witch worked her magic for good for me apparently.) The way to the vineyards meandered through the town (conveniently passing the train stop for those arriving by rail). It went over and along the Acher, small here, but larger downstream, before reaching the first of several climbs. (This was the longest, and not terribly steep.)
The higher the climb the more captivating the scene became. Vineyards wind all around, north, south east and west, as well as up and down – wherever I looked. The itinerary is mostly through vines, with a bit of orchard area here and there. Consequently, there is little shade or cover from the sun. Not ideal in the heat of summer. But that wasn’t a problem when I was there!
Snow continued to fall, but not stick. Approaching the top of the first climb, I could see the higher ridges of the Black Forest. The snow covered the trees, and blanketed the open slopes. What a magical display. All the benefits of seeing a winter wonderland without actually hiking through snow!
Heading back south, toward the hills above the town, the trail passes under the Blosenberg Chapel. It is one of the best points along the trail to enjoy the views and restful stillness of a country setting. Further along the trail, Kappelrodeck’s castle came into view, sited atop its little hilltop.
Just as attractive a view lay further on. It too is a real local attraction, as it ties together the witch, the castle, and the vineyards. Dasenstein is a rocky outcropping amid the vines. Local sagas relate that a beautiful noble maiden loved a farmer’s son, but that her father forbade any relationship. Expelled from the castle, the girl turned to the boy, who rejected her. So, she sheltered under the Dasenstein’s overhangs, and planted vines. She became old and bitter, hexing the locals. But not the vines apparently, as flourishing vines now surround the rock! The successful local winery even takes as its name: The Witch from Dasenstein.
Witch, wine and woodlands, all rolled up in a myth in a fairytale-like town. Time to try a little of the happiness that the good Hex (Witch) vom Dasenstein can spread, and look forward to another hike in the area someday soon.