Germany’s Ahr Wine Region, almost 50 kilometers north of the Moselle at Koblenz, is the Rhineland-Palatinate’s northern-most wine region, though it is not Germany’s northern most wine region. (That honor goes to the Saale-Umstrut region in Saxony.) But it is the furthest north red wine region in Germany. Until seen, it would be hard to credit that red varietals could ripen well enough this far north. But the vines grow on steep, mostly south-facing slopes of dark volcanic rock, along a very narrow valley that runs (in a very serpentine fashion) from west to east. Nature and geologic activity have combined to create some ideal conditions for red varietals here, with volcanic stone soils in the western end of the valley, and loess soils in the eastern end of the valley, as it approaches the Rhine.
I didn’t know what to anticipate in the Ahrtal, but it certainly wasn’t this: gorgeous, dramatic scenery, and absolutely delicious food and wine, all set in the heart of the river valley of one of the lesser known German wine regions.
Steep Terraces and Tree-lined Slopes
Also unexpected were the steep hills that, by necessity, must accompany such stunning perspectives. And equally unexpected was the excellent red wine. Given its northern latitude, where ripening can prove difficult, good red wine is often challenging to make. Finally, I did not expect such well-developed tourism infrastructure in an area unknown to mass tourism. But Germans certainly knew about it, as the license plates I saw in the towns and villages indicated visitors from all over Germany – and with good reason.
Ahrweiler: Street Scene
The main town in the area, Bad Neuenahr-Ahrweiler, is a delightful spa town, with all the amenities found in most spa towns: perfectly maintained paths (wheelchair as well as baby carriage accessible) through beautifully manicured parks or gardens; cafes by the dozen where strollers can watch the world go by with a cup of coffee, or a glass of wine in hand; museums and concerts, sometimes even free and outdoors; and, of course, good restaurants. The most important amenity though, pools and spas, are throughout town and in several hotels. (Soaking in a whirlpool of hot water after a long hike is any hiker’s idea of heaven on earth.)
Bad Neuenahr: City Park
But for those preferring something a bit more strenuous, there is the Rotweinwanderweg. At 35 kilometers, it is designed to be hiked over a couple of days in stages, at your own pace. Conveniently, area hotel guests receive a local rail pass, which was another pleasant surprise! Therefore, it is possible to ride to the start point, in Altenahr, hike your way back down the valley to a point of your choosing, then picking up the following day where you left off the day before.
Winding Along the Cliffs
This trail is certainly do-able in two days, but you will want more time! Lovely wine taverns, wine shops and rest areas line the trail in places. While some taverns were in the villages (Dernau was especially full of them), I stopped at one (the Michaelishof) magnificently set in the midst of the vineyards on the outskirts of Mayschoss to sample some food and wine, in spite of being behind schedule.
Other places that beg for a stop on the trail are fantastic overlook points, and dramatic cliffside benches. Quiet forest vales also invite hikers to experience a few minutes in shadowy, green tranquility. Sadly, I didn’t have enough time to maximize my enjoyment at each spot, so it was often with a heavy sigh, that I moved on. But at this point, I knew I could definitely count on another unexpected delight around the next bend or atop the next rise – and I was never disappointed.
Cliffside Seating
My hike on the Rotweinwanderweg only took me from to Altenahr to Marienthal. That is to say, I only completed the first 13 kilometers of the trail because of personal time constraints. Marienthal is as good a place to stop as any, as it is the site of a former monastery, now home to the Weingut Kloster Marienthal. Set in a hidden, narrow draw lined by vineyards on one side of the road, and tall pines on the other, its historic building contains an impressive wine shop, a wine bar, and a garden café. It was a fitting way to end my hike on this trail, which also included an unexpected desire to return someday to finish this great trail.
Germany’s Ahr Wine Region, almost 50 kilometers north of the Moselle at Koblenz, is the Rhineland-Palatinate’s northern-most wine region, though it is not Germany’s northern most wine region. (That honor goes to the Saale-Umstrut region in Saxony.) But it is the furthest north red wine region in Germany. Until seen, it would be hard to credit that red varietals could ripen well enough this far north. But the vines grow on steep, mostly south-facing slopes of volcanic rock, along a very narrow valley that runs (in a very serpentine fashion) from west to east. Nature and geologic activity have combined to create some ideal conditions for red varietals here, with volcanic stone soils in the western end of the valley, and loess soils in the eastern end of the valley, as it approaches the Rhine.
With only about 560 hectares, it is one of the smallest wine regions in Germany. Red wine predominates, with about 540 of those 560 hectares dedicated to red varietals. Spaetburgunder (Pinot Noir) is the most widely planted varietal, but Domina, Regent, as well as Dornfelder and Portugieser, are other red varietals that are widely planted throughout the Ahr valley. The red Fruehburgunder varietal is a regional specialty.
Wine making has historically been a cooperative affair here. Kloster Marienthal, founded in 1137, has a long history of wine-making. As the name implies, it was formerly a monastery, which needed wine for its services. Abandoned for over 100 years, it became the state wine domain in 1925. A near-by wine cooperative (winzergenossenschaft) claims to be the oldest wine cooperative in the world. The Mayschoss-Altenahr cooperative was founded in 1868 with 18 vintner members, now boasts about 420!
One final word about the wines here: It is especially difficult to find Ahr wine outside the region!
What I Tasted
2016 Spaetburgunder, Blanc de Noir, Trocken, Deutsche Qualitaetswein, Winzergenossenschaft Mayschoss Altenahr: A dry red wine vinified white, a light medium gold color with a slight tinge of pink; floral nose, with floral, vanilla and slight ripe peach flavor, very smooth overall.
2015 Rose, Heimat, Trocken, Deutschen Qualitaetswein, Josten Klein: A dry red wine (Spaetburgunder) with dark salmon pink color; floral and red berry nose, with berry and mineral flavors; very mild tannins.
2015 Spaetburgunder, Ahr-Rose, Trocken, Qualitaetswein bA, Weingut Meyer-Naekel, VDP (Dernau): A dry rose wine with pink grapefruit color, floral and sweet berry nose, with flavors of the same; slightly tart, with no appreciable tannins.
Sekt, Cuvee CK, Brut, Winzerhof Koertgen (Ahrweiler): A dry, sparkling wine cuvee (Pinot Noir, Weissburgunder, Chardonnay), with medium gold color and lively bubbles; slight floral and yeast notes on the nose, with fruity and bread flavors; medium acidity.
Trail Type: Long distance; surface footing is all hard, be it on tarmac or hardpacked earth to stair-steps; very well maintained, and extremely well-marked.
Length:
Total: 35.5 kilometers / 22 miles
My segment: Altenahr to Marienthal (@15 kilometers / 9 miles)
Convenient to: Bonn, Germany
Marking: Red grapes on a white background
Trail Description:
This outstanding trail had a lot of variety – from the scenery, to the trail surfaces, with just enough challenge to make it fun. Sun and shade alternated as the trail passed from woods to vineyard. Judging from the numbers of couples and small groups, it is a popular trail, easily accessible from a number of points throughout its length, and one that offered several great wine taverns, as well as occasional rest areas with picnic tables, along the way.
Trailheads:
Altenahr: Seilbahnstrasse x B267
Bad Bodendorf : Bahnhofstrasse x Moselstrasse
Parking: (Altenahr to Heppingen only)
Altenahr: Seilbahnstrasse, a large lot
Rech: Brueckenstrasse (at the far end of the bridge)
Marienthal: Klosterstr, large lot at end of the improved road
Heppingen: Left off Burgstr, Parkplatz Friedhof, a large lot by the cemetery
Public Transportation Options:
Rail: Deutsche Bahn regional trains frequently service the Ahr valley, from Remagen to Ahrbruecke, with stops at all the villages/towns on the trail. (See the free ride tip below.)
Suggested Stages:
Altenahr to Mayschoss (4 km)
Mayschoss to Rech (3 km)
Rech to Dernau (4 km)
Dernau to Marienthal (4 km)
Marienthal to Walporzheim (3.1 km)
Walporzheim to Ahrweiler (3.4 km)
Ahrweiler to Bad Neuenahr (6.7 km)
Bad Neuenahr to Heppingen (2.2 km)
Heppingen to Lohrsdorf (2.5 km)
Lohrsdorf to Bad Bodendorf (2.1 km)
Trail Itinerary-Reference Points: (Altenahr to Bad Neuenahr only)
Altenahr: Altenburgerstr, Rossberg, trail for castle, then for Weisses Kreuz, vineyards, woods, more vineyards; Mayschoss: Weinhaus Michaelishof, Dorfstr, trail through vineyards, Rech: joins above In Der Aue; vineyards, then woods; Dernau: vineyards, cross K35, cross Bachstr, vineyards; Marienthal: Klosterstr; past the Kloster Marienthal winery, then ruins; Vineyards and woods, past Weingut Forsterhof; Bad Neuenahr-Ahrweiler: Im Teufelbach-Am Silberberg, vineyards, cross Elligstrasse, vineyards; Lantershofen-Grafschaft: cross L83/Hemmessener Str; Bad Neuenahr-Ahrweiler: cross over A573, vineyards; cross top of Bergstr, woods; Cross under A61; Heppingen: Jahnstr, past cemetery, cross Burgstr, woods, then vineyards; Lohrsdorf: Ritterstr, Grosser Weg, B266, vineyards, woods; Bad Bodendorf: Heerweg, turn at Winzerverein Bad Bodendorf onto Bahnhofstr.
Representative Trail Photos:
Section of Woodland Trail
Trail: Sample Section Through Vineyards
Restrooms: None observed!
Attractions on or near Trail:
Ahrweiler: AhrWeinForum, a museum with permanent displays focusing on the life of vintners in the vineyards and in the cellars.
Tasting along the Trail:
Many taverns, wine bars and wineries (See itinerary above for ones directly on the path). Many more may be found off the trail in town/village centers.
Alternative Options:
Biking: The 75-kilometer-long Ahrradweg (Ahr Bicycle Trail) begins further upriver, and from Altenahr covers the same wine villages, albeit from the valley floor, mostly on dedicated bike paths, following along the river.
I was enthralled by the gorgeous and dramatic scenery. As a wine drinker, I came to appreciate every curve and new hillside, which sheltered yet another natural bowl for the vines to thrive in. A one-day hike of slightly less than half this trail, (followed by a good soak in the mineral waters), was simply not enough time to spend here.
Bad Neuenahr-Ahrweiler is a health resort area, and it has a number of attractions which might appeal to visitors: open air jazz or classical concerts, wine tastings and spa treatments.
If staying in the valley at a local hotel, the hotel-provided guest card will serve as a train ticket during your stay! The train is the ideal way to cover the stages of this hike.
