In Stuttgart and seeking to escape city life for a few hours? Looking for somewhere close by, convenient to reach, yet with a real feel of countryside? The Stuttgart Wine Trail (Stuttgarter Weinwanderweg, in German) provides a convenient countryside escape, with wine and food stops, along an easy trail for young and old, residents and visitors alike. Best of all, it is easily accessible via the Stuttgart metro system, being only a few stops from the city’s center!
While the trail is organized and promoted by Stuttgart Marketing, whose brochures are found in the local tourism offices, I saw mostly local people all along this trail: people with canes, women with baby carriages, even a little girl learning how to use her scooter. (Lesson One: It’s tough going uphill.) And even if it involves a couple of steep climbs, this trail is smooth and easy walking. The brochure also lists all the potential establishments where you can enjoy local food and wine. It is close to the traditional German concept of a Sunday afternoon family outing: a convenient destination in the countryside, suitable for multi-generations, educational, some open air exercise, and food and drink near the end of it. My idea of a great time!
The brochure map, and the trail signs, allow for a start in either Untertuerkheim or Obertuerkheim. Trail markings begin outside the selected metro/train station. The easy-to-follow trail soon leaves those two small towns behind and enters vineyards. Rising higher, the towns drop far below, and views of the massive conglomeration that is Stuttgart begin to appear in the distance. But save the photo ops for later, higher up the hill!
The trail enters the village of Uhlbach, and the first educational stop appears: the Alte Kelter – the village’s former pressing house. Inside, there is a wine bar of contemporary design, and a compact yet very informative wine museum. Uhlbach also has a variety of places to eat, and is very photogenic village.
The climb continues from Uhlbach into the vineyards behind it. As the trail begins to level off, it leads through some of the named plots, (which you will see on wine bottle labels later), and a series of educational boards appear. After a final push uphill, the trail enters the village of Rotenberg. At the top of Markgraeflerstrasse, I turned right, and walked a kilometer uphill to the park at the end of Stettener Strasse, a marvelous place for a picnic and great views: Stuttgart to the west, Ludwigsburg to the north, the Schwabian highlands to the south. Climbing a little knoll, I took photos while marvelling at the distant views on a clear and bright spring day.
Turning left at the top of Markgraeflerstrasse, you can follow Stettener Strasse downhill, then detour uphill to the Grabkapelle. This impressive chapel and mausoleum is visible from many points along the trail. Built by the King of Wuerttemberg for his wife who died tragically young, it houses their tombs, a chapel, and a tiny exhibit on the history of the hill, which was the site of the original castle of the ruling family. From the neo-classical portico, with its commanding views, and easily defensible approaches, you can see why this hilltop was chosen as a castle stronghold.
Leaving Rotenberg, passing by its diminutive cemetery, the trail twists and turns through vineyards, eventually reaching the Collegium Wirtemberg winery. This cooperative offers bottles and tastings, and even has an outdoor patio set beside the vines where you can enjoy a quiet glass or two before continuing along the trail.
Shortly thereafter, the trail arrives outside Untertuerkheim, where you may have begun. Here too, you can shorten the hike by walking downhill to the train station. Otherwise, if you began in Obertuerkheim and want to complete the whole circuit, you walk through vineyards overlooking the Neckar, and an iconic Mercedes factory. Once you reach (again) the Obertuerkheim cemetery and chapel, it is an easy 10 minute walk downhill to the town center, and the train station.
If you make the metro connection just right, you can be back in Stuttgart’s bustling city center in about 15 minutes, and ironically, the memory of this peaceful trail will seem of a distant time and place!