Luxembourg is a small country. But good things often come in small packages, as the expression goes. This is true not only of the Duchy, but also of the wines, and of the wine trail I completed.
Luxembourg’s wines, especially its sparkling wines, are appreciating in quality year over year. One of the oldest caves for the Domaines Vinsmoselle, is in Wellenstein in the Canton of Remich. In this southern-most section of Luxembourg’s appellation, wine is big business. Accordingly, three small communities closest to this cave have collaborated to create an educational wine trail. While not in the largest appellation along the Moselle, nor perhaps the most celebrated, this trail deserves pride of place among many of the hiking trails, large or small, found up and down the Moselle for a number of reasons.
The educational aspects of this wine trail loom large. There are about 20 panels along the trail, in German and French, which highlight some of the significant aspects of local vinicultural and viticultural practices. Additionally, there are museums along the way. The trail begins at one of them. The A Possen museum is housed in two old dwellings, formerly belonging to local vintners. The exhibits were extensive, and the opportunity to see the interior of these old homes is unique. The second museum, in Schwebsingen, is an open-air museum, set up along the trail.
Another fantastic feature of this circuit trail, is the variety in terrain and elevation. From the museum in Bech-Kleinmacher to the next educational marker, the trail quickly climbed to a ridgeline covered by vineyards beginning to bud. Soon I was trekking through a copse of trees on a solitary country lane, passing fields, meadows and more vineyards. A bright, spring green predominated until the trail reached the village of Wellenstein, with its first tasting opportunity, the Cave de Wellenstein.
Wellenstein has vineyards in abundance, ranging up and down the steep hillsides just outside town. For those who are tired, (or tired of hills), an official short-cut makes it appearance here. Pressing onward and upward, hikers come to yet something else: dense, dark woods. Nowhere else in Europe have I seen woods that so completely shut out the natural light. Fortunately, the trail did not penetrate the virtually impenetrable thickets. Eventually, it came out into more vineyards, as it meandered down to and through Schwebsingen and its open-air museum, then made a bee-line on flat terrain back to the start in Bech-Kleinmacher.
Other points of interest are the far-ranging views. Luxembourg’s appellation wine all comes from directly along, or within very close proximity to, the Moselle. Therefore, once on some of the higher elevations, there are views up and down the Moselle, into France to the south, and Germany to the north and east. But behind the first ridgeline, are deep valleys, followed by more ridges to the west. Pocket of vineyards nestle below towering trees, tumbling out of sight into the depths of the valley.
Finally, this trail is designed with flexibility in mind. In addition to the above-mentioned shortcut, making this suitable for different fitness levels, (or different weather conditions), this circuit was also suitable for wheeled conveyances, be they bikes or carriages.
Only a short, ten kilometers, but a great wealth of variety and information in such a small area. Such was this trail in Luxembourg’s wine region along the Moselle, a jewel in the tiny box that is the Duchy.